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Sökning: WAKA:kon > Högskolan i Borås > Peterson Joel

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2.
  • Jain, Sheenam, et al. (författare)
  • Mass Customized Fashion: Importance of Data Sharing in the Supply Chain
  • 2018
  • Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
    • IntroductionThe presence of mass customization (MC) in the fashion industry was recognized a long time ago, but still, has not reached its full potential. Surprisingly, MC is still confused with mass produced ready-to-wear fashion (Fiore, Lee, & Kunz, 2004). MC is a production strategy to generate individual uniqueness at low cost, where globalization and technological improvements, has made the fashion industry even more competitive (De Raeve, Cools, De Smedt, & Bossaer, 2012). In our contemporary fashion retail world with an expanding supply from omni-channel retailers and e-tailers, the market for fashion has become overwhelming, and might become a serious threat to sustainability if the industry keeps on producing to an overheated market (Claudio, 2007). With an overflow of fashion products, retail strategies are changing, embracing motivational drivers such as individualization of shopping in terms of services, often illustrated as curated retailing[1] (Sebald & Jacob, 2018). This phenomenon could be seen as mass customization of services, where retailers are trying to tailor both online and offline shopping experience to every unique customer with the help of personal shoppers and/or advices, combined with individual offerings and campaigns (price, delivery costs, brands, and customer happenings). But where can we identify true MC with promising ideas, contributing to a more sustainable fashion industry?Today, individualized offering in terms of garment’s style, fit and color can be found on many online mass customization stores, with limited reach to physical stores mainly because e-channel makes information collection and order processing faster and easier (Li, Huang, Cheng, & Ji, 2015). For instance, the Swedish online retailer Tailor Store AB, started offering mass-customized shirts for men in the year 2003 (“Tailor Store: One Size Only – Yours. Skräddarsydda skjortor.,” n.d.). This online fashion retailer has an interactive online product configurator that allows the customer to tailor the shirt according to individual needs and wants. People can change the style, fabric and fit by interacting with their online product configurator. However, a configurator like that increases the complexity of production processes (Mukherjee, 2017) and affects the objective of low costs. Many operations still require manual work like adapting the standard size pattern to the newly obtained measurements, adjusting the production plan, as every garment is unique in some way. This becomes a hindrance to achieve cost-efficiency and hence is an unresolved issue from the industry point of view (Zancul, Durao, Rocha, & Silva, 2016). Due to the need of manual work described above, the so called mass customization can’t really be seen as “mass” produced. In addition, another company called Unmade (“Home | Unmade,” n.d.), realized a business opportunity in this regard. It introduced an online platform that connects the customer and manufacturer by transforming customer needs into production ready information. With this platform they combined the roles of various supply chain actors to provide a common solution for several participators.  It can be inferred from the above instance that every actor in the fashion supply chain holds a certain type of end-user data. It is not certain, however, that there is an effective mechanism of information sharing within the fashion chain, even if many agrees upon the promising future for MC. MC requires an integrated supply chain to facilitate seamless information flow. This can provide additional data that can be utilized for designing an efficient MC Service and in turn enhancing customer experience (Grieco et al., 2017). Purpose & Research QuestionCurrently, the major reason for disintegration in the MC supply chain is due to competition. Because of which the manufacturer offer standardized garments through retailers and customized garments through their online channel (Li et al., 2015). We believe that the fashion industry is ready to seek joint ventures among its various actors to innovate the processes that can facilitate mass customization. There is a need for the actors to recognize the value of data they possess for the development of the fashion industry as a whole. In this regard, the aim of this paper is to address the following research question:What kind of data is available in the fashion supply chain and what are the barriers that restrict various actors to share this data and work together to cater to the mass customization business model? Design/methodology/approach We plan to present a Swedish case study based on interviews with various stakeholders (fashion designers, textile designers, fabric manufacturers, garment manufacturers, merchandisers, logistics & operations manager, and retailer) in the supply chain of a mass customization company.FindingsWe hope to present a case indicating that the promising idea with mass customization does not have to mean the downfall of the retail stores. In fact, the phenomenon should provide retailers with an opportunity to make use of the upcoming digital technologies, internet of things (IoT) and big data analytics for providing high-value services and unique experiences that drive the customers to the stores. Our ambition is to identify opportunities with data sharing and joint ventures with the common goal of designing a customer-centric supply chain that offers a completely customized purchasing experience, truly transforming the fashion retail industry.Preliminary findings from projects performed by one of the authors, supports the idea that data in the fashion supply chain is crucial in understanding customer behavior and knowing their preferences. Handling this big data smartly can give answers to umpteen questions related to but not restricted to most promising customer attribution channels and technologies (Shao & Li, n.d.). This data cannot only help in personalization but also target offers at point of sale and other touchpoints (any point of interaction with the customers), blending their offline and online presence (Meyer & Schwager, 2007).The most common type of data collected by the retailers is the customer’s purchase history, which does not help to comprehend each customer’s interests and preferences. The data collected by the retailers is of utmost importance as it is collected directly from the customer. However, the type of data that the retailers are gathering is not sufficient. According to a Forrester study, over 60% of the customers are willing to provide information directly to the retailers by filling short surveys or questionnaires. However, only 39% retailers are actually practicing this. In addition, the kind of information asked is not the ones customer actually would like to share (Murray & Consulting, 2017). The end aim should be an on-demand supply chain where it’s not just customization. Customization requires active participation from all the actors in the supply chain, so it is also the ability to re-stock the shops more efficiently and respond to trends quicker.[1] ”Curated retailing combines convenient online shopping with personal consultation service to provide a more personalized online experience through curated product selections, orientation and decision aids, and tailor-made solutions based on the customer's preferences” (Sebald & Jacob, 2018, p 189). 
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  • Kadi, Nawar, 1970-, et al. (författare)
  • The Effect of Warp Tension on the Colour of Jacquard Fabric
  • 2017
  • Ingår i: IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering.
  • Konferensbidrag (populärvet., debatt m.m.)abstract
    • The aims of this paper is to demonstrate the effect of warp tension on fabric colour for several types of weaves structures, and found a relationship between them. The image analyse technique used to determine the proportion of yarns colour appearance, the advantage of this techniques is the rapidity and reliability. The woven fabric samples are consisting of a polyester warp yarn with continuous filaments and density of 33 end/cm, a polypropylene weft yarn with a density of 24 pick/cm, and the warp tension ranged between 12-22 cN/tex. The experimental results demonstrated the effect of the warp tension on the colour of fabric, and this effect is related to several factors, where the large proportion of warp appearance leads to larger effect on fabric colour. The difference in the value of colour differences ΔEcmc is larger is in the range 16 to 20 cN/tex of warp tension. Using statistical methods, a mathematical model to calculate the amount of the colour difference ΔEcmc caused by the change in warp tension had been proposed.
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4.
  • Larsson, Jonas, et al. (författare)
  • Evaluation of risks in a supply chain for customised knitwear
  • 2011
  • Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
    • Purpose of this paper It is generally accepted that short lead-times, postponement of processes and production close to the market decrease risk in supply chains. Knit-on-demand is a research project at the Swedish School of Textiles in collaboration with a knitwear manufacturer and a fashion retailer. In the project a business concept for mass customised knitwear has been developed and tested. This paper presents an evaluation of a risk analysis performed in 2007 on the Knit on Demand project. The evaluation in 2011 is made to conclude whether risks decreased with the mass customisation concept and if the expected results were the same as the outcome. Methodology The case study method is used and sources of evidence are interviews, documents, and value stream mapping. The data from the case studies are then converged in a “What-if” analysis. Findings The evaluation revealed how the risk level changes in a supply chain when introducing a mass customisation concept for fashion garments. Practical implications The concept was tested in its business environment for one year and four months. The tools developed for managing supply chain complexity and -risk in the Knit on Demand project are applicable to conventional knitwear production as well.
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5.
  • Larsson, Jonas, et al. (författare)
  • Knit On Demand : Simulation of an agile production and shop model for fashion products
  • 2007
  • Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
    • In fashion business customer demand is changing due to fashion trends and new designs. Time from customer demand to customer demand fulfillment is essential for company’s ability to compete in the fashion retailing business. During the last 20 years there has been a dramatic technical development in the production of flat knitted garments. This has made it possible to rationalize design and production in a way that it’s possible to make a knitted garment ready made directly in the knitting machine, with a minimum of after coming processes. Objective of this paper is to present a design, production and shop model for the “Knit on Demand” concept and show of how this new production technology could be implemented in a fast fashion logistics system. A business model with the knitting machines and production equipment located in the store is presented. The customer takes part in the design process and garments are customized to fulfill actual demand. Aim is to present a lead time simulation of design- and production processes involved in the shop concept. Result is a model with starting point in customer demand and final point in demand fulfillment. Simulation shows that the customer could have an own designed garment in 2-5 hours. Simulation of the developed shop model is done in the software tool AutoMod. Methodology for this paper is based on a research project of the Knit on demand concept idea at the University College of Borås, literature research and discussions with suppliers of knitting production equipment.
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6.
  • Larsson, Jonas, et al. (författare)
  • One-piece fashion, summary of Knit on Demand
  • 2010
  • Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
    • Knit on Demand is a research project at the Swedish School of Textiles in collaboration with Ivanhoe AB and SOMconcept AB. The purpose of the project is to test new production methods for knitwear that could strongly influence the fashion industry's need for agility. In autumn 2009 sales started in Stockholm. The project stands on three legs; design, knitting technology and logistics and the purpose of the paper is to describe the Knit on Demand project from these three perspectives. Designing the garments and the system was the most time consuming part of the project since the products had to be fashionable, manufacturable and preferably not to expensive so a few trade offs hade to be made. Look was however considered essential since fashion always comes first. For knitting a combination of fully fashion and cut and sew are used so that the garments keep some of the fully fashion advantages but remains easily customisable. Logistics becomes a little bit more complicated because of the unique garments but the logistic costs does still not make up more than 3-5 percent of the sales price of a garment. Return rates are below one percent, which is rather interesting to further analysis.
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7.
  • Mouwitz, Pia, et al. (författare)
  • Beyond mass customisation : Mass individualisation
  • 2009
  • Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
    • For some years customers have been able to purchase mass customized garments on the Internet and “Design your own...” is very often used to attract the customer. Most of the products are standard products that the customer are allowed to change in a number of predetermined ways. Design however is something more than just choosing the colour or changing the length of the arms, it also involves changing the silouette and the whole expression of the garment. The idea is to create the basis for a new type of design and manufacturing that allows true own design for everybody.
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8.
  • Oscarsson, Linda, et al. (författare)
  • Development of a diamond shaped light radiating textile : an experimental flat knitting process with optical fibres
  • 2008
  • Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
    • This paper is about the experimental product development of a light radiating textile lamp in which optical fibres are used as the only illumination source. The assigning company is GloFab, a company located in Stockholm, which designs different kinds of light radiating textile products. The paper is based on the work of a research project which had an inductive approach; the project consisted of a literature survey and experimental work on a flat knitting machine located in the knitting laboratory at the Swedish School of Textiles, in Borås, Sweden. The aim with the research project was to explore the possibilities to produce a knitted lampshade integrating optical fibres, shaped as a diamond with a hexagon basis (see Figure 1). This was done on an electronic flat knitting machine with special equipment suitable for the feeding of yarn with high stiffness. This is interesting for GloFab because it gives possibilities to industrialize the production process and by doing so reach a wider market. In a broader perspective it is relevant to study how new materials can be used in traditional textile processes. The product development consists of two parts: exploring the possibilities to knit the desired shape on one hand and experiments about knitting with optical fibres as a weft insertion on the other hand.
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9.
  • Pal, Rudrajeet, et al. (författare)
  • Measuring QR in globalised apparel supply chains
  • 2009
  • Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
    • Substantial development has taken place, slowly, in the field of Quick Response (QR) since its evolution; however, the holistic view of it has been complex and fuzzy. The paper determines the dimensions and key elements of QR by identifying the essential virtues of a supply chain in a globalized environment and takes help of 3-dimensional concurrent engineering to develop a QR Practicability Tool-kit for future interpretation into a QR-rating model for measuring its adoption. The analysis is based on a critical review and synthesis from prior conceptual articles as a theoretical base. The work highlighted is expected to be beneficial for firms for developing value-added partnership (VAP), determining performance, re-configuring resources and aligning organizational activities.
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10.
  • Peterson, Joel, et al. (författare)
  • A Multiple Choice System for Designing Knitted Fashion Garments
  • 2007
  • Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
    • During the last 20 years there has been a dramatic technical development in the production of flat knitted fashion garments. This has made it possible to rationalize design and production of knitted products in a way that it’s possible to make a knitted garment ready made directly in the knitting machine, with a minimum of after coming processes. Starting point is a business model with the knitting machines located in the store. The customer takes an active part in the design process and garments are customized to fulfill actual demand. The objective of this paper is to develop a model for a “multiple choice” design system. The objective is also to combine the complete garment knitting technology with the area of mass customization and show how this could be implemented in the business of fashion products. The result is an overview of the area of mass customization, complete garment knitting technology and the Knit On Demand business concept. A multiple-choice system where the customer selects style, pattern, size, color and other features of the garment in order to customize the product is presented. Methodology for this paper is an inductive approach based on a literature survey and research project at the University College of Borås.
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