| 1. |
- Worbin, Linda
(author)
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Designing dynamic textile patterns
- 2010
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Artistic work (other academic/artistic)abstract
- Designing Dynamic Textile Patterns Progress in chemistry, fibres and polymers technology provides textile designers with new expressive materials, making it possible to design dynamic textile patterns, where several different expressions are inherent in the same textile, textiles that, for example, could alternate between a striped and checkered pattern. Textiles are traditionally designed and produced to keep a given, static expression during their life cycle; a striped pattern is supposed to keep its stripes. In the same way textile designers are trained to design for static expressions, where patterns and decorations are meant to last in a specific manner. However, things are changing. The textile designer now deals also with a new raw material, a dynamic textile, ready to be further designed, developed and/or programmed, depending on functional context. This transformation in practice is not an easy one for the designers. Designers need to learn how to design with these new materials and their specific qualities, to be able to develop the full expressional potential inherent in “smart textiles design”. The aim of this thesis is to display, and discuss, a methodology for designing dynamic textile patterns. So far, something that mainly has been seen in different experimental and conceptual prototypes, in artistic expressions and for commercial efforts etc. In terms of basic experimental research this thesis explores the turn in textile design practice through a series of design experiments with focus on contributing to identifying and characterizing new design variables, new design methods and new design techniques as a foundation for dynamic textile patterns.
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| 2. |
- Gunn, Maja
(author)
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Body Acts Queer
- 2015
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Licentiate thesis (other academic/artistic)abstract
- Body Acts Queer is an exploration of the performative and ideological functions of clothes with regard to gender, feminism and queer. It is an artistic, practice-based thesis in the field of fashion and design. The thesis includes three projects: On & Off, If you were a girl I would love you even more and The Club Scene. In these projects I, using text and bodies, work with acts in which clothes have a fundamental role. By exploring bodily experiences of clothes, I investigate the clothes’ performative and ideological functions, with a focus on cultural, social and heteronormative structures.Working with clothing and fashion design from a queer feminist perspective, I transform queer and feminist theory into a creative process. The projects presented in this thesis, together with the discussion, suggest a change in the ways in which bodies act, are perceived and are produced within the fashion field, giving examples of how a queer design practice can be performed. In this thesis, queer design is explored as an inclusive term, containing ideas about clothes and language, the meeting point between fiction and reality and the ability to interpretation and bodily transformations – where desire, bodily experiences and interaction create a change.
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| 3. |
- Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie, et al.
(author)
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Independence and Flexibility: A Case Study on a Small-Scale Creative Producer and Its Potential for Rethinking Pedagogical Models Within Higher Education in Fashion Design
- 2021
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Conference paper (peer-reviewed)abstract
- In the paper that the session draws upon, a case study on a small-scale creative producer in fashion design in Gothenburg, Sweden was conducted which led to conclusions relating to fashion design education. The session acknowledges that with the common outsourcing of production, there is a division between ideation and production processes in fashion. Conversely, at small-scale creative producers the two phases are intertwined, constituting a melting pot for innovative forms and ideas for new organizations and creative leadership. In turn, this facilitates sustainable approaches within the design as well as economic processes. This case study was conducted through interviews with the founder, designer and creative director of industry, Rickard Lindqvist, where three main areas were looked into; new organizational forms and innovative leadership that have been generated within this local small-scale creative producer, the challenges of new organizational forms and innovative leadership that this small-scale creative business had to face, and the meeting of economic sustainability and design skills within the business.The interviews highlighted several key elements in how to form a sustainable small scale creative production with innovation and development in focus. Key elements were identified; synced team building, development of business models as part of the design process, collaborations, openness to new craft approaches, digitalization, open source and self-leadership. Rather than as a separate process, the production process is here viewed as a source for ideation. A division between ideation and production risks overlooking possibilities for conscious sustainable design decisions embedded in the production process.Independence and flexibility were emphasized in this case study as being of main importance for resilience in the challenges of future innovative developments, on organizational, design and production level, but evenly on a creative director’s level. In the context of higher education in fashion design, the talk will conclude that there’s a need to further develop and strengthen above core values - independence and flexibility- through pedagogic strategies and principles within course syllabi, aiming to facilitate the forming of innovative and economically sustainable design organizations.
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| 4. |
- Paras, Manoj Kumar, et al.
(author)
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ReTuna: The Recycling Mall
- 2016
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In: ReTuna: The Recycling Mall.
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Conference paper (other academic/artistic)abstract
- This study has been undertaken to understand the practice of ReTuna. This has been done through two phases: In the first phase backend operations have been studied by visiting collecting and sorting facilities and interviewing mall management. In the second phase each mall tenants have been studied and interviewed. After each interview data has been analysed and follow up interview were done to strengthen the information. The study shows that the reuse mall has been established near a recycling centre to promote the concept of reuse. Instead of disposing of goods to incineration, Citizens are encouraged to donate the goods to the mall. The collected products are sorted on the basis of type by mall employees and kept at different designated location of each tenants in line with their contract. Employees of the tenants visit the warehouse to receive and sort their assigned goods according to conditions and product categories. Some of the tenants have facilities to re-design, repair and wash the garments to improve the functionality of products. The mall management is doing efforts to increase the number of upcycling activities that the tenants perform to increase the value of the reused goods. The reuse mall also provides workshop and laboratory space to college involved in the education of reuse and re-design. Students of the college experiment with donated goods to redesign new products.
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| 5. |
- Thornquist, Clemens
(author)
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Dressed bodies and built environments : the interactive composition of public space
- 2019
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In: The Journal of Public Space. - : City Space Architecture. - 2206-9658. ; 4:1, s. 3-14
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Journal article (peer-reviewed)abstract
- The human body has been pivotal in much architectural research. Researchers of public space often underscore its interactive and transformative qualities as linking to a broader understanding of the different individual social practices taking place in such spaces. What seems to be lacking however is an analysis of the relationship between the dressed body and the built environment which together constitute a public space. The aim of this paper is to explore and elaborate on the interaction between dressed bodies and architectural structures and outline an alternative approach to understanding the different aesthetic forces at play in the constitution of public space. Using a photographic series of piloted experimental sites, this paper points out how the aesthetics of fashion enrich, contribute to, and change the aesthetics of urban architectural environments. The result prompts a clearer understanding of the interaction between dressed bodies and architecture and offers guidance for future research designed to bridge the gap between the aesthetics of the scale of the body and the scale of building and infrastructure in the constitution of public space.
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| 6. |
- Urciuoli, Luca, et al.
(author)
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Drivers and barriers affecting usage of e-Customs - A global survey with customs administrations using multivariate analysis techniques
- 2013
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In: Government Information Quarterly. - : Elsevier. - 0740-624X .- 1872-9517. ; 30:4, s. 473-485
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Journal article (peer-reviewed)abstract
- The adoption of e-Customs platforms to simultaneously ensure regulatory compliance and to facilitate trade is a major strategic issue for governments and customs administrations worldwide. It ensures a more cost-efficient usage of resources while preserving a smooth flow of goods across international borders. Hence, customs administrations are challenged to favor the introduction of IT systems that may enhance the ability to improve information sharing with the business sector, as well as with other governmental agencies. This is often not a straightforward process. As many experts point out, e-Government development projects fail commonly due to the lack of thorough understanding of administration requirements as well as barriers for implementation. Hence, the purpose of this study is to understand what factors enable or hinder the exploitation of e-Customs platforms. By means of a Systematic Literature Review (SLR), a theoretical framework is developed to identify drivers and barriers for usage of e-Government/e-Customs platforms. Thereby, a survey instrument was developed and data was collected in occasion of a World Customs Organization (WCO) Annual Council meeting, which was joined by around 400 customs delegates and officers from 178 WCO member administrations. A total of 94 questionnaires have been collected and analyzed, which gives an approximate response rate of 23% (46% considering only the 178 member administrations). The analysis of data has been performed by a combination of multivariate techniques and ANOVA. Results show that factors like cost-savings and ease of use significantly influence the usage of e-Customs platforms. On the contrary, cost-efficiency and usefulness of e-Customs platforms have no significant impacts. From the perspective of barriers preventing adoption, this paper identifies two main factors: 1) technical constraints and costs and 2) quality and trust. Both these factors significantly influence adoption of information sharing, in the context of business-customs communication.
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