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- Goldsmith, David
(författare)
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Local Fashionalities : Växbo Lin and WomenWeave
- 2014
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Licentiatavhandling (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Global Fashion, via the logic of high-speed, large-scale industrial production and anachronistic high-volume consumption habits, causes significant social and environmental damage. Local Fashion is understood as part of the Slow Fashion movement that aims to change the functions of fashion so that they support or lead the quest to flourish within known human and planetary boundaries. This Licentiate thesis examines, through an exploratory narrative based on new and existing research, two Local Fashionalities. Växbo Lin is a small linen manufacturer/brand in Hälsingland, Sweden, producing new heritage home textiles. WomenWeave is a handloom social enterprise in Madhya Pradesh, India, making naya khadi. Their approaches and practices are presented and discussed vis-à-vis notions of “globality”, “locality”, design management, and the quest for sustainability. The narrative aims to improve understandings of what Local Fashion is, and contribute to the effort to design new fashion systems grounded in logic relevant to contemporary human needs and aspirations.
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| 2. |
- Gunn, Maja
(författare)
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Body Acts Queer
- 2015
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Licentiatavhandling (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Body Acts Queer is an exploration of the performative and ideological functions of clothes with regard to gender, feminism and queer. It is an artistic, practice-based thesis in the field of fashion and design. The thesis includes three projects: On & Off, If you were a girl I would love you even more and The Club Scene. In these projects I, using text and bodies, work with acts in which clothes have a fundamental role. By exploring bodily experiences of clothes, I investigate the clothes’ performative and ideological functions, with a focus on cultural, social and heteronormative structures.Working with clothing and fashion design from a queer feminist perspective, I transform queer and feminist theory into a creative process. The projects presented in this thesis, together with the discussion, suggest a change in the ways in which bodies act, are perceived and are produced within the fashion field, giving examples of how a queer design practice can be performed. In this thesis, queer design is explored as an inclusive term, containing ideas about clothes and language, the meeting point between fiction and reality and the ability to interpretation and bodily transformations – where desire, bodily experiences and interaction create a change.
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| 3. |
- Persson, Anna
(författare)
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Knitted Circuits for Visual and Tactile Interactive Expressions
- 2009
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Licentiatavhandling (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- As computational technology and new materials are entering the world of textiles, our view on the textile material is challenged; the areas of textile design and interaction design start to merge. Designing interactive textiles means communicating new expressional forms through textile material. This thesis aim to contribute to the exploration of designing interactive knitted textiles with focus on linking interactive properties, especially visual and tactile, to different ways of expressing them. Design examples and experiments presented are meant to show new possibilities for designing textile material able to change structure, colour and temperature in different ways in response to environmental stimuli. As a way of presenting, and reflecting on, these interactive properties, a notion of expression diagrams is introduced.
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| 4. |
- Tholin, Jörgen
(författare)
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En roliger dans? : Svenska skolors första tolkning av innebörden i lokala betygskriterier i tre ämnen för skolår åtta
- 2003
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Licentiatavhandling (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- When the new curriculum for Swedish compulsory school (Lpo 94) and a new grading system were introduced, criteria for assessment were given only for the final marks. For the term marks schools were supposed to set up their own criteria. Originally the school authorities gave no reasons why teachers should do this, but gradually some reasons appeared in various school documents. One reason was that if the criteria were created locally it would give opportunities for teachers and learners to discuss the learning goals in the classroom, and there would also be discussions between colleagues about teaching, learning and assessment. Another reason was that this way the system would be clear to the learners so they would know what was required of them. In my research I study how teachers from 93 different schools interpreted the new ideas in the curriculum in their local plans and criteria for assessment for three different subjects: English, Chemistry and Physical Education. The first part of the study shows that when local criteria were first set up, the learners had not been involved, and the system was not presented clear enough for them to understand the contents. Neither had there been any in-depth discussions in the staff rooms about assessment. In many cases the language of the documents is such that both pupils and parents must find it very difficult to understand what is required in order to achieve a certain mark. One reason for this is, in my opinion, that teachers never quite understood why they should draw up local school plans and criteria, nor did they realize the difference between national and local criteria. In part two of the study the focus is on one subject, English. What research and what new ideas had made their way into the English syllabus and how were they interpreted in the local documents? It turns out, however, that only few schools had integrated the most significant new ideas, like learner influence and intercultural competence in their goals and criteria. The most characteristic feature was rather that many schools created new goals for English. Most frequent were criteria that had to do with grammar. More than half of the schools presented a number of criteria for grammar skills, while in the syllabus grammar is only mentioned once. The reason why grammar is so heavily emphasised is probably not that most English teachers in Sweden find grammar the most important aspect of English teaching. I would rather suspect that quite a few teachers did not have any strategies when they were given the task to formulate criteria, something they had never done before. Instead of starting by asking the obvious question “What are the most important aspects of my subject?” it seems likely that many teachers started out with the question “What can easily be tested in my subject?” The answer as regards English is of course “grammar”, and so the criteria are full of grammar objectives. Obviously the teachers were not properly informed about why they should formulate assessment criteria. They had had very little in-service training about the new syllabus and no training at all to make them better prepared for this task. Consequently they were not prepared to interpret the new ideas that were presented in Lpo 94.
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| 7. |
- Göbel, Hannes
(författare)
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IT Service Management : Designprinciper för Informationssystemsartefakter
- 2014
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Licentiatavhandling (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- "Kunden är idag nöjdare""Antalet kritiska fel i produktion har markant minskat"”Vi har nått en högre kapacitetsnivå för flera processer”"Bättre kostnadskontroll för helheten samt för respektive förvaltningsobjekt""Ramverket mottogs bland medarbetarna på ett positivt sätt och kommer att hjälpa oss att arbeta mer effektivt”"Fått bättre kvalitet på data vilket ger möjlighet till bättre uppföljning och genomförande av proaktiva åtgärder"Citaten ovan vittnar om att det 36 månader långa forskningsprojekt som legat till grund för resultatet i avhandlingen har varit lyckat. Ytterligare ett bevis för framgången var att projektet blev tilldelat ”Årets IT Service Management Projekt” år 2013 med motiveringen att projektet på vetenskapliga grunder har arbetat för att effektivisera IT Service Management sektorn. Priset utdelades av den ledande internationella medlemsföreningen inom ITSM; itSMF. Men vad handlar då denna positiva respons om? Svaret är IT Service Management (ITSM) vilket är ett relativt nytt koncept där IT hanteras och levereras i form av kund- och processorienterade tjänster.Möjligheterna att fullt ut dra nytta av den samlade kunskapen inom ITSM-området är dock inte helt oproblematisk. Detta gäller framförallt för små och medelstora företag (SMF) som betraktar sig som IT-tjänsteleverantörer. Den främsta anledningen till detta är att befintliga stöd på marknaden, som avser att bistå organisationer med att leverera effektiva tjänster, inte är designade efter de förutsättningar som SMF besitter. Detta innebär att det finns en brist på goda stöd för denna stora grupp att skapa tjänster av hög kvalitet på ett kostnadseffektivt sätt. Detta kan leda till onödigt höga kostnader, minskad konkurrenskraft och minskade vinstmarginaler för organisationerna.Ett forskningsprojekt vid Högskolan i Borås har under tre år utvecklat ett ramverk som syftar till att stödja SMF i sitt arbete med att effektivisera sina tjänsteleveranser. Ramverket består av metoder, modeller och IT-artefakter. Syftet med avhandlingen är att beskriva arbetet med dessa artefakttyper samt att presentera kunskapsbidrag bland annat i form av designprinciper. Designprinciperna syftar till att underlätta och stödja utvecklingen av ITSM-relaterade informationssystemartefakter (IS-artefakter) för SMF. Den forskningsmetod som använts har varit en variant av Action Design Research (ADR). Forskningsmetoden hanterar utveckling, intervention och utvärdering av artefakter och ligger inom ramen för Design Research (DR). Bidraget i avhandlingen relaterar därför till de dubbla uppgifterna i DR: 1) kunskapsbidrag riktade till forskarsamhället och 2) kunskap som är riktat till praktiker. De kunskapsbidrag som presenteras för forskarsamhället utgörs främst, men är inte begränsade till, designprinciper och förfining av de teorier som legat till grund för designprinciperna. Bidraget till praktiker utgörs främst av, men är inte begränsade till, de olika typer av IS-artefakter som designats och utvärderats under studien.
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| 8. |
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| 9. |
- Harper, Sara
(författare)
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Supply network configuration for small series, high-cost production : Exploring the European textile and apparel industry context
- 2020
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Licentiatavhandling (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- The purpose of this thesis is to increase the understanding of supply network configuration (SNC) for small series production in high-cost contexts in relation to the textile/apparel industry. SNC encompasses strategic structural and infrastructural decisions at the supply chain level, motivated by capabilities/priorities. The key configuration decisions addressed concern textile/apparel production in Europe, with associated context-specific advantages and challenges. The thesis takes a particular focus on how practitioners consider these configurations and motivations. The thesis begins with identification of motivations for locating textile/apparel production in high-cost contexts, to capture the driving priorities. Thereafter, the thesis extends the focus beyond location motivations to identify the key SNC aspects and characteristics for small series production in high-cost contexts. These configuration-related aspects and capabilities are elaborated upon and modelled to understand how they are interrelated in textile/apparel industry contexts. The empirical work uses mixed-methods and seeks to bring together the relevant topics using a SNC and capabilities approach. The specific methods, Delphi study and interpretive structural modeling, are focused on sensitivity practitioner perspectives.Findings show multiple key motivations/capabilities for high-cost textile/apparel production, specifically small series production (customization); which is closely linked with several other priorities, including quality and flexibility/delivery. Expanding the view to the SNC aspects, the findings confirm and extend the literature regarding complexities, multi-level characteristics, synergies and trade-offs, and industry/location contingencies. Regarding this European textile/apparel context, several interrelated considerations create challenges with respect to balancing configuration, capabilities and location; in particular related to multiple priorities such as flexibility/delivery, quality, innovation/sustainability, and the level of product variety/customization. Several relational characteristics are also crucial, including focus on trust and information sharing, although, with a few significant exceptions, limited supplier integration levels are found. These findings indicate the need to build upon existing relationships to develop end-to-end digital connections.The thesis approaches issues at the intersection of theory and practice, regarding configuring supply networks for small series production in high-cost contexts. Practically, it develops an approach to evaluate and model decision aspects, demonstrating how this can be used with a variety of textile/apparel companies. Several extensions are required to support current and future state mapping, including developments related to the method and the addition of performance considerations.The thesis contributes to theory by broadening the focus on high-cost locations to include small series production and the SNC perspective. Thus, the research confirms multiple priorities including innovation and sustainability; additionally finding several challenges associated with small series textile/apparel production in high-cost contexts. Further research should extend the focus to understand (re)configuration processes, and implications on priorities like sustainable innovation.
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| 10. |
- Hernández, Niina
(författare)
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Tailoring the Unique Figure
- 2000
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Licentiatavhandling (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Today, it is possible to offer customers a garment to order according to their desires and body figure. The new, more automatic, equipment and software make the process faster and possible to realise. However it is important to have the basic knowledge about how to adapt the patterns according to the many variations of figures that exists. Pattern construction for unique figures is covered in this study. The report begins with a background to the problem concerning finding suitable garments, followed by earlier initiatives. The main body of the study contains three main sections: body figure registration – including measurements, single pattern adaptations, and individual patterns.
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