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- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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Exploring Fashion as Communication : The search for a new fashion history against the grain
- 2020
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Ingår i: Popular Communication. - : Informa UK Limited. - 1540-5702 .- 1540-5710. ; 18:4, s. 249-258
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- This introductory essay calls for a new fashion media history informed by truly interdisciplinary scholarship, nuanced in both fashion and media studies. It reflects upon the ways in which the study of fashion as communication and fashion journalism have been addressed, arguing that fashion studies has laid out a western backbone of this history that invites and deserves to be confirmed and contested. It encourages future authors to find those fashion media discourses, voices, and practices that brought attention to fashion and dress moving past the so-called ‘fashion bibles’ to unravel discourses reaching popular audiences, underrepresented minorities, unlisted geographies, and subcultures.
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| 4. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-, et al.
(författare)
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Because Fashion Matters : Studying the Intersections of Fashion, Film and Media
- 2015
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Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- The increasing interest in the study of fashion has opened up to the emergence of Fashion Studies as an independent field, with programs in several universities around the globe. However, the study of fashion should not be regarded as a new phenomenon. For decades, scholars from varied disciplines in the humanities and the social sciences have immersed themselves in the study of fashion, particularly in relation to film and media. Since the early days of cinema, the film industry played a key role in the promotion and representation of fashion. Likewise, its mediated character through newsreels, television, newspapers, magazines, photography and even paintings has facilitated the study of costume and dress history. Film scholars like Jane Gaines, Stella Bruzzi, and Pamela Church Gibson—among others—have vastly contributed to the interdisciplinary study of these intersections. Furthermore, in order to explore the specificities of these areas, Church Gibson launched the journal Fashion Film and Consumption, though the publishing house Intellect Books in 2011.In this contemporary setting, a pertinent and necessary topic to explore is the demands on interdisciplinary approaches, both from the side of Fashion Studies scholars with a purist point of view, and from their counterpoints in Film and Media more likely to envelop fashion in visual culture as a whole.As discussions regarding delimitations and canons take place behind close doors in fashion programs, the need to open up such debate to Film and Media scholars is vital to the future of a field that has seen a great part of its development through these neighboring contributions. The workshop will explore the study of Film, Media and Fashion in coexistence with the emergence of Fashion Studies as an independent field, focusing on questions of methodology, theory and practice through the experience of different film and media scholars working with fashion and film. Before opening up the floor for discussion, a brief set of presentations will serve as a framework to address the debate, engaging the audience in reflections surrounding the following questions: What are the challenges and advantages of film and media scholars engaging in fashion research? Is Fashion Studies an exclusive realm for fashion scholars? Is there one singular way to study and teach fashion independently from its neighboring disciplines? What can different approaches used in Film and Media Studies contribute to the study of fashion? To what extent can Fashion Studies exist as a totally independent field, avoiding connections with Film and Media?
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- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
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Branding the Oscarcast : The public relations strategies that established the academy awards ceremony as a media spectacle
- 2023
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Ingår i: Historical Journal of Film, Radio and Television. - : Informa UK Limited. - 0143-9685 .- 1465-3451. ; 43:1, s. 109-127
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- The Academy Awards ceremony is the most popular award-giving ceremony in media culture. This article explores the efforts for turning the event into a commercially profitable television product by exploring the public relations activities that shaped it during the 1950s. In doing so, these findings debunk the mythologized conception of television’s longstanding interest in broadcasting the event as allegedly colliding with Hollywood’s resistance to entering the new medium. It argues that the Oscarcast emerged from a trial-and-error strategy, consolidating through the professionalization of public relations tactics that included the year-round communication of activities related to the ceremony, the construction of a press pavilion, the exploitation of a fashion angle to attract female audiences, and a subsequent broadening of their audience strategies to expand its appeal to sponsors.
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- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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Dior Salve a la Reina : Cristina Fernández's Fashionable Pleasures and her Constant War Against the Media
- 2013
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Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
- Is an austerity discourse compatible with ostentation? And if so, how can the contempt against the middle class be compatible with the veneration of a wealthy leader? Why is Cristina Fernandez’s indulgent luxury forgiven while the working middle class is stigmatized as privileged oligarchs? How does this relate to the controversial and iconic figure of Eva Duarte de Perón? The paper describes the dichotomy between Cristina Fernandez’s national populist discourse and her personal preference for high-end brands that had turned her into a fashion icon, capturing the attention of fashion bloggers, international newspapers, and even Vogue. Theoretically framed by O’Donell’s conceptualization of Delegative Democracies, the presentation will explore how disguised under a veneer of socialism—and pursuing Chavez’s model for Venezuela—Argentina’s president has mobilized a campaign to control the local Media leading to a confrontation with those journalists who persistently try to unmask her luxurious lifestyle, shopping preferences, and unclear finances. This contradiction between luxury and utterance is not new to the Argentine masses. The iconic figure of Evita was often under attack, accused of enjoying the same lifestyle as those she criticized. The parallelism between these two figures draws an interesting conclusion about the role of Media, performance, nostalgia, and fandom in Latin-American politics.*Play on words exchanging Dios (God in Spanish) for Dior as in “Dior (God) Save the Queen.”
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- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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From Scarcity to Abundance : How Digitized Material Demands Academic Cooperation
- 2017
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Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- The recent proliferation of free-access digital archives opened a new era of research in which costs decrease as information flourishes. This abundance represents countless possibilities, but as material becomes more vast and accessible, the anxieties for publishing increase, in a profession that already dealt with a haunting “race against time” to present results. In addition, the challenge of accessing larger bulks of material builds up pressure, calling for more precision in arguments, as results derive from a larger amount of primary sources. The use of fan magazines as sources for academic research is vast in film and media studies, but its potential across newer fields—such as fashion and celebrity studies—is increasingly bringing more players into the game. Moving forward with these changes without analyzing the extent of their impact would be awry. In this landscape, Carlo Ginzburg’s Microhistory and Walter Benjamin’s problematization of historical debris need to be revisited, not in metatheoretical manner, but rather in a search for answers in this new reconfiguration. My argument for this workshop is that abundance and time constrains enable a reformulation of research questions and the emergence of a more collaborative research environment; more material also requires more contextual knowledge, making the bulk of work increase exponentially. In addition, I call to not lose from sight that abundance does not imply completion, calling for awareness of the—always-tempting—illusion of historical completion.This presentation explores the potentials and anxieties brought by the abundance and accessibility of digital archives, as it also intends to offer an overview of a potential reconfiguration of academic work enabled by these new research platforms. As with every workshop, I bring more questions that answer to open up for debate. How can we get pass the anxiety of abundance? Do we need to “zoom in” deeper when conducting research in this new landscape? How do research networks reconfigure as more material becomes electronically available? Is this new availability of material opening up for historical revisionisms? How do we incorporate these tools in the classroom?
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- Castaldo Lunden, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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Introduction : Exploring the Intersection of Fashion, Film, and Media
- 2018
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Ingår i: Networking Knowledge: Journal of the MeCCSA Postgraduate Network. - : Networking Knowledge MeCCSA PGN Journal. - 1755-9944. ; 11:1, s. 1-6
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Tidskriftsartikel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- This special issue belongs to a series of activities under the umbrella denomination “Studying and Exploring the Intersections of Fashion, Film, and Media Studies,” created in 2014 by film scholar Anne Bachmann and I. Our goal was to promote an interdisciplinary perspective to the study of fashion, film, and media. This venture was launched with two activities at the 2015 edition of the annual conference of the Society for Cinema and Media Studies, in Montreal. The first activity consisted of a panel featuring the on-going projects of four Ph.D. students working with these combined fields.[1] The second activity consisted of a workshop, in which presentations opened to discussions addressing how the use of archival material and film fan magazines, combined with film studies’ methodological approach to history, could benefit fashion research.[2] This workshop expanded into a Symposium at Stockholm University featuring established scholars who pioneered research in these fields of studies combined. This special issue of Networking Knowledge seeks to include early career researchers in such conversation, broadening the network of scholars and the combined field of expertise. Since its inception, a historical approach has been encouraged by the founders of this project. Yet, the semiotic roots used for textual analysis of costume design shall not be overlooked. In this sense, this special issue intends to present a panorama of the heterogeneous nature of studies in these interconnected fields.
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- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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No Oscar for The Oscar? : Behind Hollywood's Walk of Greed
- 2014
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Ingår i: Networking Knowledge. - : Networking Knowledge MeCCSA PGN Journal. - 1755-9944. ; 7:4, s. 1-16
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- In 1966 the popular interest in the Academy Awards propelled Paramount Pictures to produce The Oscar (Embassy Pictures-Paramount Pictures, 1966), a film based on the homonymous novel by Richard Sale. The Oscar tells the story of an unscrupulous actor willing to do anything in his power to obtain the golden statuette, regardless of whom he has to take down along the way. Building up on fantasies of social mobility, we see the protagonist (Frankie) display his vanity, arrogance and greed to create a less than likeable character whose only hope to put his career back on track lies in obtaining the precious statuette. The movie intends to be a sneak peek behind the scenes of the biggest award ceremony, but also behind the lifestyle of the Hollywood elites, their glory and their misery as part of the Hollywood disposal machinery. Despite not being financed or officially supported by the Academy, the film intertwines elements of fiction and reality by using real footage of the event, and featuring several contemporary representatives of the movie industry such as Edith Head, Hedda Hopper, Frank and Nancy Sinatra, playing cameo roles, adding up to the inter-textual capacities of the story. Head’s participation was particularly exploited for the promotion of the film, taking advantage of her position at Paramount, her status as a multiple winner, and her role as a fashion consultant for the Academy Awards. This paper is an analytical account of the film’s production process. Through a close look to its publicity, it will unravel how the studios relied on the awards, and all possible inter-textual capacities to promote the film, despite the Academy’s distancing from the project.
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