| 1. |
- Buraczewska, Izabela, et al.
(författare)
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Changes in skin barrier function following long-term treatment with moisturizers, a randomized controlled trial
- 2007
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Ingår i: British Journal of Dermatology. - : Oxford University Press (OUP). - 0007-0963 .- 1365-2133. ; 156:3, s. 492-498
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- BACKGROUND: Moisturizers are commonly used by patients with dry skin conditions as well as people with healthy skin. Previous studies on short-term treatment have shown that moisturizers can weaken or strengthen skin barrier function and also influence skin barrier recovery. However, knowledge of the effects on skin barrier function of long-term treatment with moisturizers is still scarce. OBJECTIVES: To investigate the impact of long-term treatment with moisturizers on the barrier function of normal skin, as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and susceptibility to an irritant, and to relate those effects to the composition of the designed experimental moisturizers. METHODS: Volunteers (n = 78) were randomized into five groups. Each group treated one volar forearm for 7 weeks with one of the following preparations: (i) one of three simplified creams, containing only a few ingredients in order to minimize the complexity of the system; (ii) a lipid-free gel; (iii) one ordinary cream, containing 5% urea, which has previously been shown to decrease TEWL. The lipids in the simplified creams were either hydrocarbons or vegetable triglyceride oil, and one of them also contained 5% urea. After 7 weeks, treated and control forearms were exposed for 24 h to sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) using a patch test. TEWL, blood flow and skin capacitance of both SLS-exposed and undamaged skin were evaluated 24 h after removal of patches. Additionally, a 24-h irritancy patch test of all test preparations was performed on 11 volunteers in order to check their possible acute irritancy potential. RESULTS: Changes were found in the barrier function of normal skin after 7 weeks of treatment with the test preparations. The simplified creams and the lipid-free gel increased TEWL and skin response to SLS, while the ordinary cream had the opposite effect. One of the simplified creams also decreased skin capacitance. All test preparations were shown to be nonirritant, both by short-term irritancy patch test and by measurement of blood flow after long-term treatment. CONCLUSIONS: Moisturizers influence the skin barrier function of normal skin, as measured by TEWL and susceptibility to SLS. Moreover, the effect on skin barrier function is determined by the composition of the moisturizer. The ingredients which influence the skin barrier function need to be identified, and the mechanism clarified at the molecular level.
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| 2. |
- Buraczewska, Izabela, et al.
(författare)
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Long-term treatment with moisturizers affects the mRNA levels of genes involved in keratinocyte differentiation and desquamation
- 2009
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Ingår i: Archives of Dermatological Research. - : Springer Science and Business Media LLC. - 0340-3696 .- 1432-069X. ; 301:2, s. 175-181
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- In a recent study, we showed that long-term treatment with two different moisturizers affected TEWL in opposite directions. Therefore, we decided to examine the effect of these moisturizers on the cellular and molecular level. In a randomized controlled study on 20 volunteers, epidermal mRNA expression of genes essential for keratinocyte differentiation and desquamation after a 7-week treatment with two moisturizers was analyzed. Treatment with one test moisturizer increased gene expression of involucrin, transglutaminase 1, kallikrein 5, and kallikrein 7, while the other moisturizer affected only expression of cyclin-dependent kinase inhibitor 1A. Thus, moisturizers are able to modify the skin barrier function and change the mRNA expression of certain epidermal genes. Since the type of influence depends on the composition of the moisturizer, these should be tailored in accordance with the requirement of the barrier of each individual patient, which merits further investigations.
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| 3. |
- Buraczewska, Izabela, et al.
(författare)
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Moisturizers change the mRNA expression of enzymes synthesizing skin barrier lipids
- 2009
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Ingår i: Archives of Dermatological Research. - : Springer Science and Business Media LLC. - 0340-3696 .- 1432-069X. ; 301:8, s. 587-594
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- In a previous study, 7-week treatment of normal human skin with two test moisturizers, Complex cream and Hydrocarbon cream, was shown to affect mRNA expression of certain genes involved in keratinocyte differentiation. Moreover, the treatment altered transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in opposite directions. In the present study, the mRNA expression of genes important for formation of barrier lipids, i.e., cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides, was examined. Treatment with Hydrocarbon cream, which increased TEWL, also elevated the gene expression of GBA, SPTLC2, SMPD1, ALOX12B, ALOXE3, and HMGCS1. In addition, the expression of PPARG was decreased. On the other hand, Complex cream, which decreased TEWL, induced only the expression of PPARG, although not confirmed at the protein level. Furthermore, in the untreated skin, a correlation between the mRNA expression of PPARG and ACACB, and TEWL was found, suggesting that these genes are important for the skin barrier homeostasis. The observed changes further demonstrate that long-term treatment with certain moisturizers may induce dysfunctional skin barrier, and as a consequence several signaling pathways are altered.
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| 4. |
- Buraczewska, Izabela, 1976-
(författare)
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Skin barrier responses to moisturizers
- 2008
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Doktorsavhandling (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Moisturizers are used in various types of dry skin disorders, but also by people with healthy skin. It is not unusual that use of moisturizers is continued for weeks, months, or even years. A number of moisturizers have been shown to improve the skin barrier function, while others to deteriorate it, but the reason for observed effects remains unknown. Further understanding of the mechanism by which long-term treatment with moisturizers influences the skin barrier would have clinical implications, as barrier-deteriorating creams may enhance penetration of allergens or irritants and predispose to dry skin and eczema, while barrier-improving ones could reduce many problems. The present research combined non-invasive techniques with analyses of skin biopsies, allowing studies of the epidermis at molecular and cellular level. Test moisturizers were examined on healthy human volunteers for their effect on the skin barrier, with regard to such factors as pH, lipid type, and presence of a humectant, as well as complexity of the product. After a 7-week treatment with the moisturizers, changes in transepidermal water loss, skin capacitance, and susceptibility to an irritant indicated a modified skin barrier function. Moreover, the mRNA expression of several genes involved in the assembly, differentiation and desquamation of the stratum corneum, as well as lipid metabolism, was altered in the skin treated with one of the moisturizers, while the other moisturizer induced fewer changes. In conclusion, long-term use of moisturizers may strengthen the barrier function of the skin, but also deteriorate it and induce skin dryness. Moisturizers have also a significant impact on the skin biochemistry, detectable at molecular level. Since the type of influence is determined by the composition of a moisturizer, more careful selection of ingredients could help to design moisturizers generating a desired clinical effect, and to avoid ingredients with a negative impact on the skin.
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| 5. |
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| 6. |
- Lodén, Marie, et al.
(författare)
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Facial anti-wrinkle cream : influence of product presentation on effectiveness: a randomized and controlled study
- 2007
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Ingår i: Skin research and technology. - : Wiley. - 0909-752X .- 1600-0846. ; 13:2, s. 189-194
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Background/aims: The great interest in eternal youth has developed a large market for skin care products claiming anti-wrinkle effects. A high-priced luxurious anti-wrinkle cream dispensed in its original packaging and in a neutral jar, were compared with the effects from a regular moisturizing face cream in a luxurious jar. Methods: Eighty Swedish women aged 35-64 years were randomly divided into three groups; group A treated their facial skin for 6 weeks with the expensive cream in its luxury jar, B used a regular moisturiser filled in the luxury jar, and C used the expensive cream filled in a neutral jar. Evaluation was made by the subjects, clinical evaluation by a trained observer, and measurement of skin surface relief by optical profilometry. Results: Participants using jars A and B consumed more product than participants using jar C, and the luxury jar thus resulted in better compliance. There were no significant differences between the three groups relating to the effects on wrinkles and smoothness, nor in subject assessment of their skin feeling younger or more beautiful. Facial appearance was the same. Profilometry showed reduced surface microrelief with all products. Conclusions: The present study conducted as a formal trial could not verify a claim of anti-wrinkle effect of a known prestigious product. Surprisingly, there was no systematic effect on subjective and objective cosmetic parameters of the luxury packaging, except a better compliance. Product appreciation by consumers may, however, be different in spontaneous use not biased by study conditions.
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| 7. |
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| 8. |
- Skedung, Lisa, et al.
(författare)
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Tactile friction of topical formulations
- 2016
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Ingår i: Skin research and technology. - : Blackwell Publishing. - 0909-752X .- 1600-0846. ; 22:1, s. 46-54
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Background: The tactile perception is essential for all types of topical formulations (cosmetic, pharmaceutical, medical device) and the possibility to predict the sensorial response by using instrumental methods instead of sensory testing would save time and cost at an early stage product development. Here, we report on an instrumental evaluation method using tactile friction measurements to estimate perceptual attributes of topical formulations. Methods: Friction was measured between an index finger and an artificial skin substrate after application of formulations using a force sensor. Both model formulations of liquid crystalline phase structures with significantly different tactile properties, as well as commercial pharmaceutical moisturizing creams being more tactile-similar, were investigated. Friction coefficients were calculated as the ratio of the friction force to the applied load. The structures of the model formulations and phase transitions as a result of water evaporation were identified using optical microscopy. Results: The friction device could distinguish friction coefficients between the phase structures, as well as the commercial creams after spreading and absorption into the substrate. In addition, phase transitions resulting in alterations in the feel of the formulations could be detected. A correlation was established between skin hydration and friction coefficient, where hydrated skin gave rise to higher friction. Also a link between skin smoothening and finger friction was established for the commercial moisturizing creams, although further investigations are needed to analyse this and correlations with other sensorial attributes in more detail. Conclusion: The present investigation shows that tactile friction measurements have potential as an alternative or complement in the evaluation of perception of topical formulations.
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