| 1. |
- Candréus, Cecilia, 1973-
(författare)
-
De hädangångnas heraldik : En studie av broderade begravningsfanor ca 1670-1720
- 2008
-
Doktorsavhandling (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- In 17th century Europe the ceremonies of royalty and high nobility formed elaborate displays of extravagance. The aim of this thesis is to bring new knowledge about function, form and meaning of ceremonial textiles in Sweden during the so called Era of Greatness. The investigation can be described as an applied study, in this case on a group of white embroidered funeral flags used by male members of the Swedish high nobility c. 1670–1720. The study aims to portray a textile craft and its artisans, as well as the deceased men, their families and contemporary society.The funeral ceremony functioned as an arena for manifestations of power and social rank. With heraldic images embroidered with gold and silver thread the noble titles of the deceased were displayed as a way of marking his position in the social elite. The symbolic value of the flags was reinforced by their form, style and manner of execution. The results show that the flags followed a general ideal type where variations in décor were primarily related to the different noble titles. The flags can be associated with other types of flags, both military and civilian, in aspects of décor and trimmings. They also show parallel traits with coats of arms made of carved and painted wood. Objects in both categories suggest a change in style around 1680, which can be linked to a change in the embroidery technique.The flags were made by professional embroiderers and the study includes an investigation of their trade. An attempt to view the relationship between gender and professionalism is also made. The study further investigates the differences between general and individual application of the embroidery technique. The study has shown that factors such as scale, motif and object category influenced the execution.
|
|
| 2. |
- Candréus, Cecilia, 1973-
(författare)
-
Dealing with Mobility : Guilds and Tramping Journeymen in Seventeenth-Century Scandinavia
- 2024
-
Ingår i: Cultural and social history. - : Routledge. - 1478-0038 .- 1478-0046. ; 21:2, s. 163-184
-
Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- The aim of this paper is to discuss the mobility of skilled labour within small and specialised guilds in peripheral Europe during the mid-seventeenth century. Based on archival records for passementerie makers and embroiderers in Stockholm, Sweden and Copenhagen, Denmark, the paper highlights conflicts brought on by labour mobility. What can these conflicts tell us about the situation within two small and specialised trades in Scandinavia, and how were they handled? The study examines examples of the actual implementation of both regulations and traditions associated with the crafts. This illuminates historical strategies for human resource management as well as economic relations between Scandinavia and the Continent. The results suggest a balancing act of negotiations between the needs of journeymen and masters respectively, paired with a pronounced need to align with their German counterparts. It also becomes clear that conditions differed between Stockholm and Copenhagen. Not only was the number of native artisans higher within the Danish guilds concerned, there was also substantial re-growth by apprenticeship. In contrast, Sweden was heavily dependent on immigration of skilled labour.
|
|
| 3. |
- Candréus, Cecilia, 1973-
(författare)
-
Embroidery as a Means of Diplomacy : The Artisans' Part in a Royal Marriage Proposal, 1560-1561
- 2017
-
Ingår i: Textile History. - : Informa UK Limited. - 0040-4969 .- 1743-2952. ; 48:2, s. 211-232
-
Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- The use of fashionable dress played an important part in early modern dynastic politics. In this paper, the diplomatic efforts to engineer a marriage between Erik XIV of Sweden and Elizabeth I of England are used as an example of the interrelations of textiles and diplomacy. Parallel to their negotiations in London, the Swedes organised the production of luxury goods and set up temporary workshops on the spot. The study looks at the Swedish embroidery workshop in London, using written records to investigate its organisation and production, and to discuss artisanal skills and the transnational element in employment in a royal workshop. It is suggested that the entire enterprise was a diplomatic practice, designed to enable the Swedes to draw attention to their presence in London and make their consumption visible on all possible levels.
|
|
| 4. |
- Candréus, Cecilia
(författare)
-
En orientalisk tältmästare vid Karl XI:s hov
- 2007. - 67
-
Ingår i: Meddelande/ Armémuseum. - Stockholm : Föreningen Armémusei vänner. - 0349-1048. ; 67, s. [9]-39
-
Tidskriftsartikel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)
|
|
| 5. |
- Candréus, Cecilia, 1973-
(författare)
-
En svensk verkstad för utländska lyxvaror : De kungliga pärlstickarna vid Gustav I:s hov 1523-1560
- 2013
-
Ingår i: Historisk Tidskrift. - 0345-469X .- 2002-4827. ; 133:4, s. 587-620
-
Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Producing foreign splendor in domestic workshops: The royal embroiderers at the court of King Gustav I Vasa of Sweden 1523-1560A European Renaissance monarch was expected to live up to the standards of his peers. Dressed in rich apparel the regent aimed to create an image of magnificent kingship. In order to accommodate the need for opulent dress, it was necessary to have access to artisans working in different specialist trades. One such specialist trade was the embroiderers. This article investigates the work made in the Swedish royal embroidery workshop during the reign of King Gustav I (r. 1523-1560). Research questions focus on the production of embroidered dress. The number of artisans, their background and the organization of work are studied in relation to the clothes described in royal inventories and wardrobe accounts. The rise of a large royal embroidery workshop emerged gradually during the near 40 year-reign of Gustav I. The recruitment of foreign artisans, mainly from Germany and France, is seen in the growing numbers of embroiderers employed at court. The skills of these foreign artisans were passed on to Swedish apprentices in the workshop. By the time of the King's death, in 1560, more than ten embroiderers were employed on a full time basis. The workshop had then approached its peak in terms of size and would only increase slightly during the reign of Gustav's son Erik XIV. An overview of embroidered dress belonging to the members of the royal family 1539-1559 shows shifts in the use of different types of garments and embroidery techniques. The clothes described both in inventories and wardrobe accounts correspond to contemporary portraiture. This indicates that the Swedish royal embroidery workshop had capacity to supply the Vasa court with fashionable outfits. Furthermore, there is no evidence of imported garments having been more than a supplement to domestic production.
|
|
| 6. |
|
|
| 7. |
|
|
| 8. |
|
|
| 9. |
- Candréus, Cecilia, 1973-
(författare)
-
Textil begravningsståt för en man av sin tid
- 2008
-
Ingår i: Meddelanden / Föreningen för Västgötalitteratur. - Nossebro : Föreningen för Västgötalitteratur. ; :4, s. 3-4
-
Recension (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)
|
|
| 10. |
- Candréus, Cecilia
(författare)
-
Textil ståt för den sista vilan
- 2004
-
Ingår i: Dragomanen. - 1402-358X. ; 8, s. 29-49
-
Tidskriftsartikel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Ottoman Tomb Furnishings of Silk and GoldThe use of precious textiles to cover and adorn the remains of the dead is a custom that bridges over gaps between cultures, religions and ages. Funeral palls and different kinds of tomb furnishings are present in both the Islamic and Christian tradition. The aim of this article is to investigate the use of textile tomb furnishing in the Ottoman Empire. Comparisons with Christian traditions are also made.The graves of the Sultan's and their family and other prominent members of society were often marked and revered by the building of a doomed mausoleum (Turk. türbe). As the dead was buried underground, the grave was marked by a symbolic coffin, a cenotaph. Various materials were used for decorating the cenotaph and among these precious textiles played a large part. Three types of textiles are present in this article: 1. The personal clothes of the deceased, such as the caftan and the turban, 2. Funeral palls and cenotaph covers with a striped zig-zag pattern inscribed with bands of calligraphy and 3. Tailor-made cenotaph covers decorated with inscriptions and floral motifs in metal thread embroidery, so called puside.
|
|
