| 1. |
- Kumar Paras, Manoj, et al.
(författare)
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ReTuna Recycling Mall : Reuse based Circular Fashion Supply Chain Management
- 2016
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Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- The shopping mall concept has emerged to provide unique mall profiles to satisfy consumers who search for the ultimate shopping experience. Under one roof different sellers are assembled together with food outlets and entertainment to full fill the requirements of consumers.Gradually an awareness of over consumption has raised together with calls for reuse activities that reduce the consumption of new products. As an answer to this problem a shopping mall for sustainable practice and reuse: ReTuna, has been developed in Eskilstuna, Sweden.This study has been undertaken to understand the practice of ReTuna and the local based circular fashion supply chain that it incorporates. Still in its beginning ReTuna is indeed a revolutionary concept to enhance the practice of reuse.
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| 2. |
- Paras, Manoj Kumar, et al.
(författare)
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A Romanian case study of clothes and accessories upcycling
- 2019
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Ingår i: Industria textila. ; 70:3, s. 285-290
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- The present paper aims to investigate the practice of upcycling and redesign. The study draws on the multiple organizations involved in the redesigning activities. The organizations selected for the study are located in the northern part of Romania. Semi-structured interviews along with direct observations were used to collect information. The paper provides practical insights to upcycling process.Various kinds of redesigned products are made out of consumer and industrial wastes such as redesigned clothes, accessories for ladies, handbags, ladies purses and office stationery. Upcycling is generally considered as economically non-feasible. However, this study has found contradictory results. The demand-based redesign activities can help an organization to earn a profit. Two out of three selected organizations are able to self-sustain. One of the organizations is newly entered into the Romanian used clothing markets and ables to compete with existing players. This study could be seen as one of the early attempts to empirically explore the practice of textile and accessories upcycling practice in Eastern Europe. The findings from the current case study can provide several useful insights for other similar companies to make redesign activities profitable.
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| 3. |
- Paras, Manoj Kumar, et al.
(författare)
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A Sustainable Application Based on Grouping Genetic Algorithm for Modularized Redesign Model in Apparel Reverse Supply Chain
- 2018
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Ingår i: Sustainability. - : MDPI AG. - 2071-1050. ; 10:9
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- The scarcity of natural resources and the problem of pollution have initiated the need for extending the life and use of existing products. The concept of the reverse supply chain provides an opportunity to recover value from discarded products. The potential for recovery and the improvement of value in the reverse supply chain of apparel has been barely studied. In this research, a novel modularized redesign model is developed and applied to the garment redesign process. The concept of modularization is used to extract parts from the end-of-use or end-of-life of products. The extracted parts are reassembled or reconstructed with the help of a proposed group genetic algorithm by using domain and industry-specific knowledge. Design fitness is calculated to achieve the optimal redesign. Subsequently, the practical relevance of the model is investigated with the help of an industrial case in Sweden. The case study finding reveals that the proposed method and model to calculate the design fitness could simplify the redesign process. The design fitness calculation is illustrated with the example of a polo t-shirt. The redesigned system-based modularization is in accordance with the practical situations because of its flexibility and viability to formulate redesign decisions. The grouping genetic algorithm could enable fast redesign decisions for designers.
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| 4. |
- Paras, Manoj Kumar, et al.
(författare)
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An Exploratory Study of Swedish Charities to Develop a Model for the Reuse-Based Clothing Value Chain
- 2018
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Ingår i: Sustainability. - : MDPI AG. - 2071-1050. ; 10:4
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- The present paper aims to explore the current clothes reuse business in order to develop a charity-driven model for the reuse-based clothing value chain. An exploratory study was carried out in Sweden to understand the business flow of clothes reuse. This study builds on the insights gained from the multiple charities involved in the reuse-based clothing value chain. Semi-structured interviews along with direct and participatory observation were used for data collection. In the current study of Swedish charities, the founders and senior managers of the organizations were interviewed. This paper provides several insights in the form of propositions and a model related to different drivers of the reuse-based clothing value chain. In this model, business factors (system, legislation, and awareness), product factors (design, quality, and price), and consumer attitude as donor/buyer are found to be key drivers. Product design, quality, and price depend upon clothes brand, construction, and material, which are collectively important for the sale of used products. In the future, researchers are encouraged to test the present set of propositions and the proposed model across different cultural settings. The model can serve as a framework for practitioners and will be helpful for designing business strategies based on the different factors identified in this study.
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| 5. |
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| 6. |
- Paras, Manoj Kumar
(författare)
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Application of fuzzy technique for closed loop decision in clothing value chain
- 2018
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Ingår i: International journal of value chain management. - 1741-5357 .- 1741-5365. ; 9:2, s. 105-121
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Increasing concern over the environment has encouraged consumer and industry to think about the huge amount of discarded clothes. This study has considered four methods: direct reuse, up-cycling, down-cycling and incineration to close the loop of clothing value chain. Three factors (material, economy and technology) affecting closed loop decision have been identified. These factors have a different degree of influences on the decision making the process of closed loop clothing value chain. Research data has been collected from the reverse logistic experts from clothing industry. The fuzzy technique has been used to quantify the response of experts. Findings have been analysed with the help of analytic hierarchy process technique. The material factor is found to dominating factor in the closed loop decisions over economy and technology. Up-cycling and direct reuse emerged to be the best alternatives in the current scenario. The clothing companies may replicate this approach of developing hierarchy model to choose best alternatives for the closed loop value chain.
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| 7. |
- Paras, Manoj Kumar, et al.
(författare)
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ReTuna: The Recycling Mall
- 2016
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Ingår i: ReTuna: The Recycling Mall.
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Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- This study has been undertaken to understand the practice of ReTuna. This has been done through two phases: In the first phase backend operations have been studied by visiting collecting and sorting facilities and interviewing mall management. In the second phase each mall tenants have been studied and interviewed. After each interview data has been analysed and follow up interview were done to strengthen the information. The study shows that the reuse mall has been established near a recycling centre to promote the concept of reuse. Instead of disposing of goods to incineration, Citizens are encouraged to donate the goods to the mall. The collected products are sorted on the basis of type by mall employees and kept at different designated location of each tenants in line with their contract. Employees of the tenants visit the warehouse to receive and sort their assigned goods according to conditions and product categories. Some of the tenants have facilities to re-design, repair and wash the garments to improve the functionality of products. The mall management is doing efforts to increase the number of upcycling activities that the tenants perform to increase the value of the reused goods. The reuse mall also provides workshop and laboratory space to college involved in the education of reuse and re-design. Students of the college experiment with donated goods to redesign new products.
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| 8. |
- Paras, Manoj Kumar, et al.
(författare)
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Reuse based Closed Loop Clothing Value Chain: An Empirical investigation into Multinational Charities and Organizations of Norway, Sweden and UK
- 2016
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Ingår i: Reuse based Closed Loop Clothing Value Chain: An Empirical investigation into Multinational Charities and Organizations of Norway, Sweden and UK.
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Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
- Purpose of this paper:The concept of closed loop value chain maximise the utilization of product. There are different ways to close the loop, reuse is most sustainable ways to do. Purpose of this paper are twofold; first to understand the activities of reuse based closed loop clothing value chain in Norway, Sweden and UK; and second to explore, how multinational charities and organizations in reuse based business can extract maximum values from discarded clothes. Design/methodology/approach:The present study adopted a single case study approach to understand the reverse logistics of clothes in three countries. Multiple sites were studied in different cultural environments to enhance the robustness of case study approach (Lau, 2012). Direct observation was made to understand the process in seven organizations. Eight face to face interviews were conducted with operation heads to understand the practices in-depth. These visits and interviews were made between September 2015 and February 2016. All interviews were transcribed and analysed with help of qualitative analysis software Nvivo 10. Different themes of value creation were categorised and used for cross-comparison of findings. Theoretical lens of resource based view has been used to understand to capability of a firm to extract maximum value from discarded clothes. In addition, we also examined the benefits of outsourcing different operations to supply chain partners in the absence of in-house facilities. Findings:Organizations endeavour to invent, re-invent and implement new ways to collect, sort and reprocess the used clothes. Collection events are organised in the different shopping malls to create awareness and increase the amount of collection. Contracts are signed with schools, local municipality, companies and postal departments to improve collection quality and quantity. After collection, the used garments are sorted and segregated into different categories. Sorting may be considered as one of the crucial stage which can provide competitive advantage to an organization in the second-hand clothing business (Ruiz-Torres, Ablanedo-Rosas, & Mukhopadhyay, 2013). Several firms had state-of-the-art machineries to simplify and handle the material management during sorting process efficiently. Some of the organizations are trying to have sensor based sophisticated technologies to reduce manual material handling. In contrast, a few companies have moved back to manual system to achieve high quality and productivity. Also, we observed that there is a scarcity of reprocessing facilities. As a result, a garment having small defects also gets mix up with discarded clothes. Some firms have small facility of washing and ironing, which is generally used for vintage garments. Success of an organization depends upon its ability to extract value from collected garments. Most of the firms are selling best quality of products in their own shops in the domestic markets while exporting inferior quality to developing counties. The second hand clothing companies are redefining their stores as an exclusive for vintage or redesign to improve domestic sales. Private labels have emerged to sale completely redesigned garments. Concept of selling products on the basis of weight in comparison to pieces has been adopted to move normal quality goods from retail stores. Some organizations have strengthened their own business network, hence they could get good price for the exported items. On the other hand, most of the selected firms export the used garments with the help of mediators located in Netherland, Belgium and Germany. The defected and damaged clothes are transported to energy station for incineration by paying small amount of user fees. A few organizations down cycle the damaged clothes to new products on their own or with the help of their supply chain partners. The reason that may be attributed is the lack of chemical and mechanical recycling facilities. A proper integration with recycling and rag making companies would enable organisations to obtain more value from textile waste and increase the revenue. Relevance/Contribution:The present study is an attempt to enhance the understanding of clothing reuse business in Norway, Sweden and UK. Every organisation try to acquire valuable and rare resources, like ‘one touch’ or sensors based sorting facility to get competitive advantage. The research also suggested that multinational charity and organisation performance mainly depends on its organizational ability to exploit resources available inside and outside the firms. Paras, Ekwall, and Pal (2015) case study focus on the local charity organisation those who have limited resources and organization skill. Resultantly value creation from collected goods is much less compare to value created by multinational charities and organisations. This can be implied that used clothing firms should focus on acquisition of valuable and rare resources to do effective collection and sorting. Firms should also organized resources within and outside firms by developing network throughout supply chain to maximise the revenue. This study is carried out in three European countries. It can be extended to other geographical region or more number of empirical evidence to achieve saturated result. References:Lau, K. H. (2012). Demand management in downstream wholesale and retail distribution: a case study. Supply Chain Management-an International Journal, 17(6), 638-654. doi:10.1108/13598541211269247Paras, M., Ekwall, D., & Pal, R. (2015). Testing a conceptual model of circular clothing value chain with product reuse in Swedish contest. Paper presented at the Global Cleaner Production & Sustainable Consumption Conference.Ruiz-Torres, a. J., Ablanedo-Rosas, J. H., & Mukhopadhyay, S. (2013). Supplier allocation model for textile recycling operations. International Journal of Logistics Systems and Management, 15(1), 108-124. doi:10.1504/IJLSM.2013.053241
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| 9. |
- Paras, Manoj Kumar, et al.
(författare)
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Revisiting upcycling phenomena: a concept in clothing industry
- 2018
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Ingår i: Research Journal of Textile and Apparel. - 1560-6074. ; 22:1, s. 46-58
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Purpose – The purpose of this study is to review the literature and practice of upcycling. In particular, the objective of this study is threefold: to comprehend the concept of upcycling and, subsequently, understanding the prominent terminologies used in the literature; to understand the process of upcycling and problem associated with it; and to review current literature and practice of upcycling for clothes.Design/methodology/approach – A scientific literature review procedure proposed by Mayring (2002)was adopted to select and screen the paper that comprises the following steps: material collection, descriptive analysis and material evaluation.Findings – Upcycling literature has witnessed significant contribution in the past one decade. The paper has identified various terminologies and definitions such as recycling, down-cycling, upcycling and redesign, which are used in the literature.Research limitations/implications – The present study may help the scholars to understand the current state of literature. A practitioner of upcycling can use the findings to improve and standardise the existing process.Originality/value – The process of redesigning is one of the important steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. The limitation of redesigning is variability in size and pattern. This can be overcome through various techniques such as craftsmanship, time, innovation, provenance, desire and narrative.
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| 10. |
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