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- Dumitrescu, Delia, Professor Textile Design
(author)
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Digital encounters in the culture of textile making : developing a hybrid craftmanship for textile design by fusing additive methods of surface fabrication with knitting technology
- 2021
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In: DESIGN CULTURE(S). - Aalto : Aalto University. - 9789526490045 ; , s. 1588-1599
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Conference paper (peer-reviewed)abstract
- Digital fabrication technology presents an unfamiliar territory for textile design,thus requiring exploration and analysis of the emergent forms of textile crafting andmateriality. Through practice-based research methodology, this research examines the intersection of two fabrication methods: industrial knitting and 3D filament printing, with the aim of outlining a hybrid material territory for 3D textile composites. Accordingly, the research addresses the notion of textile as a multi-material system. The physical results are presented as a material library of samples which have been produced through two methods: i) the exploration of geometric tessellations to generate self-folding surfaces by direct printing on non-elastic knitted structures; ii) the exploration of pattern arrays to generate self-forming surfaces by direct printing on pre-stressed knitted structures. Using this hybrid approach to textile crafting the research discusses the aesthetic possibilities of the fusion of these two technologies, and the potential for development within the Industry 4.0 model.
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| 2. |
- Dumitrescu, Delia, Professor Textile Design, et al.
(author)
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Material Practices in Transition : From Analogue to Digital in Teaching Textile and Fashion Design
- 2023
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In: Proceedings of the 8th International Forum of Design as a Process. - Bologna. ; , s. 908-917
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Conference paper (peer-reviewed)abstract
- The transition to digital design tools challenges the crafts-manship of textile and fashion designers as part of the product value chain, opening for reflection on how textile craftsmanship should be taught in education due to the current trend of digitalisation. By looking at new forms of craftsmanship, this research expands on the idea of teaching students transdisciplinary methods which connect analogue and digital tools within textile and fashion design education. Based on analysis of a number of case studies, we propose a framework of different strategies for teaching textile crafts-manship in the digital design age, with the aim of integrating textile-specific digital environments—which have been designed primarily to maximise the efficiency of industrial processes, rather than to enhance design development with regard to artistic expression—and non-textile digital tools on the basis that these are exploratory in nature and open to more creative design practices
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| 3. |
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Entangled : reimagining textile functionalities, aesthetics and sustainability
- 2023
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Artistic work (peer-reviewed)abstract
- In the collection of artefacts presented in this exhibition, textiles are seen as active elements in their environments – being able to react to environmental stimuli by changing their shape, colour or other qualities, exhibiting behaviours similar to e-textiles but without using electricity. Drawing parallelism to biological materials, some of these changes are two-directional and thus can lead to reversible changes, whereas some are linear and irreversible, such as ageing. As examples of two-directional changes, textile designs based on UV reactive properties: colour changing, light emitting, and self-cleaning, as well as textile constructions based on newly developed yarns capable of reversible shape changes upon exposure to heat, are exhibited. On the other hand, the colour changes of natural dyes dictated by the ambient environment and the response of new PLA yarns bring about elements of irreversible change. When two-directional and linear changes coexist, the appearance (and thus aesthetics) of the artefacts is constantly altering. The timescales contained in these textile transformations vary significantly, creating an interesting interplay of diverse and sometimes intersecting qualities. These concepts are approached from different levels of study – from developing new advanced materials for making yarns to exploring different textile crafting methods for producing diverse textile structures, construction and aesthetics, as well as moving towards shape-morphing 3D textiles, where exposure and disappearance of different properties as a function of changing textile shape can occur.
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| 4. |
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| 5. |
- Lewis, Erin, 1980-, et al.
(author)
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Colour, texture, and luminance : Textile design methods for printing with electroluminescent inks
- 2023
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In: Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science Journal. - Milan. - 2384-9568. ; 15:1, s. 27-34
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Journal article (peer-reviewed)abstract
- Printable smart materials offer textile designers a range of changeable colours, with the potential to redefine the expressive properties of static textiles. However, this comes with the challenge of understanding how the printing process may need to be adapted for these novel materials. This research explores and exemplifies the properties and potential of electroluminescent inks as printable smart colours for textiles, in order to facilitate an understanding of designing complex surface patterns with electroluminescent inks. Three conventional textile print methods – colour mixing, halftone rasterization, and overlapping – have been investigated through experimental design research to expand the design potential of electroluminescent inks. The result presents a set of methods to create various color mixtures and design complex patterns. It offers recipes for print formulation and documents the outcomes, offering a new design resource for textile surface pattern designers to promote creativity in design, and provides fundamental knowledge for the creation of patterns on textiles using electroluminescent inks.
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| 6. |
- Lewis, Erin, 1980-
(author)
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Radiant Textiles : A framework for designing with electromagnetic phenomena
- 2021
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Licentiate thesis (other academic/artistic)abstract
- The design of smart, interactive, computational, and electronic textiles involves working with unknown variables that expand the tangible dimensions of textiles. Non-visual concepts such as electromagnetic fields, electrical current, computational code, and the temporal attributes of materials that exhibit dynamic qualities require that textile designers be able to perceive and manipulate domains of the textile that extend beyond its conventional forms of expression. Through these qualities, the textile becomes an interface to otherwise imperceptible phenomena of electromagnetism and thereby opens up to new textile design expressions. However, to do so requires a shift in the understanding of how fundamental textile concepts such as material, form, and expression interrelate to affect the expressive domain of the textile itself.This research aims to describe the material attributes, characteristics, and expressions of electromagnetic phenomena as explored through experimental research methods and suggests ways in which electromagnetic phenomena can be worked with as a design material for smart textiles. Further, it seeks to expand upon conventional design variables of textiles to include its electromagnetic domain. The experiments presented in this thesis suggest a framework for working with magnetic, dielectric, and conductive materials through textile techniques of weaving and knitting. The experiments point to the interrelationship between the textile material, structure, and form, identifying this triad as the key influencers that determine how textile expressions can embrace electromagnetic phenomena.The results of the experimental work are methods that show accessible ways for textile designers to visualize and perceive electromagnetic fields in textiles, such as sensing the impressions of textile structures on the magnetic field using a method of scanned-surface imaging; perceiving electromagnetic fields using textile antennas and spatial exploration, resulting in sonic expression; and kinetic textile behaviours at the yarn level through magnetic interactions. Furthermore, the design possibilities of the materials, methods and tools suggested in this thesis are demonstrated through examples of interactive artefacts, e.g., in the form of ambient energy harvesting forest mobiles and radio-frequency (RF) body extensions. The results suggest the variety of electromagnetic textile expressions that can be created when methods and tools to perceive and manipulate electromagnetic phenomena in textiles are consciously utilized.
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| 7. |
- Motta, Martina, et al.
(author)
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The role of teaching advanced technological knowledge to enhance experimental creativity in knit design
- 2022
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In: <em>Applied Human Factors Research</em>. - New York : AHFE International. - 9781958651087 ; , s. 1-8
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Conference paper (peer-reviewed)abstract
- Digitalization is one of the main grounds for discussion in the textile manufacturing industry. As in other creative fields, digitalization in textile design has brought craftsmanship together with work using digital tools and mechanical processes to creatively embed advanced knowledge in structural design and this dualism is even stronger in the field of knitwear design. For years, knitting technologies have been considered far from creativity and entirely delegated to the expertise of technicians, and design education has often focused on fostering artistic expression by teaching highly creative manual/mechanical processes. In the ongoing shift towards digitalization and the challenges of Industry 4.0, research and education in knitting design must redefine the programming of industrial machines as a tool for designers to push their experimental creativity together with their technical knowledge. This article reports an investigation made by the authors in the two different contexts of the School of Design of Politecnico di Milano and of the Swedish School of Textile in Borås. Using the method of constructive alignment (Biggs, J. B. & Tang, C. S., 2011), the investigation set up a comparison of two practice-based methods for training designers in programming industrial knitting machines. The authors mapped the teaching, learning activities and expected learning outcomes specific for each course and analysed quintessential aspects that occur in the learning process in the transition from manual to digital tools. The research had the aim of understanding what kind of knowledge should be transferred, in which way and with which purpose, to make programming an integral and effective part of the learning process for knit designers. The data collected have been used to highlight similarities and differences between the two programmes, identify impactful items and open future research that could foster improvements with shared solutions.
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| 8. |
- Zboinska, Malgorzata, 1981, et al.
(author)
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Colored skins and vibrant hybrids : Manipulating visual perceptions of depth and form in double-curved architectural surfaces through informed use of color, transparency and light
- 2022
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In: Color Research and Application. - : Wiley. - 0361-2317 .- 1520-6378.
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Journal article (peer-reviewed)abstract
- The past decades of research on color and light yielded vast knowledge supporting their informed use in architectural design. While there currently exists a rich body of knowledge and methods geared to affect the perception of depth and form in tiled, opaque architectural surfaces, not many such methods have been developed for double-curved, transparent, in-mass colored surfaces. The perception of depth and form in these surfaces relies on a complex blend of parameters, such as color combinations, illumination source, angle of viewing, location of shadows and reflections, material thickness and grade of transparency. To determine the visual effects caused by some of these parameters, experiments based on visual observations were carried out involving handcrafted, in-mass colored, undulant architectural surfaces. The insights from the experiments then served to develop four color strategies for architectural surface design harnessing the discovered effects in diverse ways. Through this, the study has sought first to observe and understand the effects of color and light in perceiving undulant surfaces, and second to highlight the potentials of harnessing these effects in the design of expressive architectural elements. The main insight from the study is that informed and deliberate application of color and light yields a wide range of potentially interesting perceptual effects in double-curved architectural surfaces, such as spatial filtering, gradient screening, vibrant massing and animate reshaping. Such effects, applied in an architectural context, can help to fulfill the demand for physical environmental enrichment in the digital era.
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