| 1. |
- Fuentes, Christian, Professor, 1978-, et al.
(författare)
-
Retailing and the re-qualification of goods : How second-hand products become valuable
- 2021
-
Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Sustainability has over the last decade attracted considerable attention from both practitioners and scholars. There are now numerous efforts by companies to source, market and sell more sustainable products in more sustainable ways. There is also now an emergent body of work that addresses sustainability issues within retail (Wiese et al. 2012; Ruiz-Real et al. 2019). However, while this field of practice and research has come a long way, it remains to a great extent delimited to the practice and study of conventional forms of sustainable retailing. Research on issues such as on the impact that signage, eco-labels, and in-store marketing can play (Jones et al. 2005b; Guyader et al. 2017), discussions on the importance of product range (Sadowski and Buckingham, 2007), or analysis of how the work of the staff can promote the purchase of more sustainable products (Fuentes and Fredriksson, 2016) dominate the field. While this work has played an important role by drawing attention to and examining these key sustainability efforts, it has tended to ignore more unconventional sustainability approaches. In this paper we want to address this paucity by exploring a relatively less conventional mode of sustainable retailing: the re-selling of previously discarded goods. While second hand retailing is not a new phenomenon in itself, the way second-hand retailing and shopping is framed and marketed has changed over time (Appelgren & Bohlin, 2015). From being a fringe and alternative phenomenon to acquiring a more mainstream position. Today we see not only the increase in trendy second-hand stores and the new digital platform for second-hand shopping, many conventional retailers are also including a second-hand line or reselling their own products along-side new lines of products. Second-hand is becoming increasingly mainstreamed (Kant Hvass, 2016). This move has also been accompanied by an increasing adoption of conventional marketing practices and goals (Broadbridge & Parsons, 2003). New ways of displaying, thematizing, and pricing second hand products have emerged. And yet little research has been done to understand these new second-hand retail landscapes. While there is an impressive body of work examining the why and how of second-hand consumption, few studies look closer at the marketing work involved in making previously discarded goods valuable again. It is this paucity that we set out to address.Against this background, our aim is to explore how and under what condition second hand products are transformed from discarded and devalued goods to valuable exchangeable products. To accomplish this, we draw on the conceptual toolbox of constructivist market studies and in particular the concept of qualification. Very briefly, qualification is the simultaneously determining and enacting of the qualities of products (Dubuisson-Quellier, 2010). From this perspective the qualities of goods are not given but instead actively constructed. Or, phrased differently, “the outcome of an active production involving the identification and valuation of good and consumer’s qualities” (Ariztia, 2013, p. 147). Studies have shown that the process of qualification is complex and commonly involves multiple actors and devices: including advertising agencies, sales clerks, social media, packaging and stores can all play key roles in the qualification of goods (Fuentes & Fuentes, 2017). In what follows we will make use of this approach to analyse and show how a series of interlinked practices lead to the re-qualification of second-hand goods using various registers. Empirically, the analysis draws on an ongoing ethnographic study of ReTuna, a shopping mall based on reuse located in Eskilstuna, Sweden. ReTuna was established in 2015 and is run by a municipality owned waste- and energy company. The owner’s goals are to create profit while also reducing the amount of incinerated waste and increasing the awareness of sustainable consumption. To fulfill these goals, ReTuna collects donated goods and distributes them to its tenants, who process and re-sell them. While ReTuna sells recirculated goods, it aims to be a traditional mall, with individual outlets, pop-up stores, and a café that offers lunch and snacks. The mall’s total area is 5,000 square meters distributed over two floors. On average, 400 visitors dispose of goods at the waste recycling station and 750 people visit the mall each day. The study makes use of ethnographic methods (Peñaloza 1998; Czarniawska 2007), combining in situ semi-structured interviews and observations at ReTuna. In total, 49 interviews with mall management, store owners/managers, store staff, collection and sorting staff and, other people involved in organizing the mall have been carried out. Three types of observations have been conducted, i.e., six overall mall observations (7,5 hours in total), 26 in-store (participant) observations (64 hours in total), and six (participant) observations in the collection and sorting center (35 hours in total). Preliminary results indicate that a set of interlinked practices are involved in the re-qualification of goods at the Re-Tuna mall. Goods go from devalued to be become valued again through a re-qualification processes involving the 1) selecting (valuing goods and selected which of the donated goods to sell and which to discard), 2) material re-making (including the cleaning, washing and steaming of second-hand goods, the refurbishment and renovation of second-hand goods to restore goods’ original function but also the redesign of goods), 3) displaying and 4) servicing of second-hand goods. We will show how second-hand goods are through these series of interlinked practices re-qualified – gaining new qualities that make them valuable to consumers – and under what conditions this process of re-qualification is possible. The paper contributes to the discussion on marketing in second-hand retail (McColl et al. 2013; Kamleitner et al. 2019; Kim et al. 2021) by discussing successful and failed re-qualification activities of second-hand goods. By learning from practical attempts, it is possible to advance the understanding of how contextual framing (marketing activities) must be interlinked with innovative use of material qualities in re-qualification processes. Practical implications involve a developed understanding of re-qualification activities that can be used by (second-hand) retailers in enhancing product and business development strategies.
|
|
| 2. |
- Hedegård, Lars, 1979-, et al.
(författare)
-
Att använda dator- och filmbaserat stöd vid praktisk undervisning
- 2012
-
Ingår i: PUH - Pedagogiska utvecklingsprojekt i högskolan. - Borås : Högskolan i Borås. ; , s. 193-208
-
Bokkapitel (populärvet., debatt m.m.)abstract
- Konfektionskollegiet vid Textilhögskolan erhöll under läsåret 2010/11medel från Centrum för lärande undervisning (CLU) vid Högskolan iBorås för att genomföra ett pedagogiskt utvecklingsprojekt. Projektethandlade om att skapa och använda dator- och filmbaserade läromedelsom stöd till praktisk undervisning. Rapporten bygger på de två delprojektendär film- respektive datorbaserat läromedel skapats och använts,ett besök vid Heriot Watt University samt intervjuer med personer somarbetat med film och undervisning i olika former. Målet med projektetvar att skapa en vägledning för att underlätta arbetet med film- och datorbaseradeläromedel vid praktisk undervisning och bilaga I återfinns enlathund till stöd för fortsatt arbete.
|
|
| 3. |
- Hedegård, Lars, 1979-, et al.
(författare)
-
Contradictions In Reuse-based Fashion Retail - the ReTuna Mall Case
- 2016
-
Ingår i: GLOBAL FASHION CONFERENCE 2016 STOCKHOLM – SWEDEN. - 9789892070537
-
Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to describe and analyse the management of a novel commercial fashion retail concept – a shopping mall based on reuse and a local circular fashion supply chain – with the aim of identifying potential strategic issues with the concept.Design/methodology/approachThis is an explorative case study, based on observations and interviews with shop managers, employees and the mall management.FindingsThe reuse concept strongly influences the mall's strategy, and the sourcing process is a key factor. The local reuse-based fashion supply chain follows the typical reuse process, but this study shows that the business logic that underpins the commercial strategy is not in line with the reuse and social enterprise ethoses that the mall ostensibly follows.Research limitations/implicationsThis study illustrates the difficulties inherent in organising a reuse-based mall due to the need to combine a commercial strategy, a local and circular fashion supply chain, and a social enterprise ethic.Practical implicationsThe findings highlight the mall management's responsibility for the sourcing of goods, the need for a closer cooperation between mall management and tenants in a reuse-based mall, and the need for competence in terms of reuse, fashion, and retail in order for the concept to be developed further.Originality/valueReTuna represents a new fashion retail phenomenon – the reuse-based shopping mall – that has not been studied yet.KeywordsFashion retail, textile reuse, clothing reuse, mall management, fashion supply chain, recycling, sustainability, circular supply chain.Article classificationResearch paper
|
|
| 4. |
- Hedegård, Lars, 1979-, et al.
(författare)
-
Digital teknik och kvantitativ metod i undervisningen
- 2022
-
Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Digitalisering i form av ny teknik är ett av de områden som våra framtida företagsekonomiska studenter förväntas kunna hantera i ett kommande yrkesliv. Samtidigt måste beslutsfattare idag i allt högre grad förhålla sig till kvantitativ data som samlas in via digital teknik. Vi måste därför inom ramen för våra utbildningar skapa möjligheter för ökad kompetens hos studenterna att samla in, analysera och förstå kvantitativ data så att dessa kan omvandlas till beslutsunderlag. Företagsekonomiska utbildningar måste således ge studenterna både teoretiska och praktiska kunskaper att hantera digital teknik och kvantitativ data i relevanta professionsmiljöer. Med sessionen [en workshop] adresserar vi hur företagsekonomisk utbildning kan göra detta genom att samla erfarenheter av undervisning som syftar till att ge studenterna teoretisk och praktisk kunskap av digital teknik och kvantitativ metod.
|
|
| 5. |
- Hedegård, Lars, 1979-, et al.
(författare)
-
Eu regulations and their impact on the Indian textile & apparel industry
- 2023
-
Ingår i: Textile Times. - New Delhi : Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI). ; XVIII:09, s. 26-31
-
Tidskriftsartikel (populärvet., debatt m.m.)abstract
- The article describes how the European Union is committed to transforming European production and consumption and achieving a circular economy. The transformation is supported by policy work, and especially crucial for the fashion and textile industry are the European green deal, the Circular economy action plan, the EU waste policy, the strategy for sustainable and circular textiles, and the digital product passport project. The article ends with reflections on how the European transformation influences the production of fashion and textiles in India.
|
|
| 6. |
- Hedegård, Lars, 1979-, et al.
(författare)
-
"Follow the things" : Donated fashion in a reuse mall context
- 2017
-
Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- This study is inspired by the "follow the things" movement that trace and document the history and travels of ordinary consumer goods such as jeans, shopping bags, food, blouses or hair extensions (see http://followthethings.com/ for a collection of travel reports). Narratives about products' origins and transformations have become part of the discourse on sustainable consumption, and it has been suggested that the post consumption phases of goods should be included in these narratives (Gregson et al (2010). This study can be seen as a response to their call, and we start our inquiry at the containers for textile recycling at the ReTuna mall - the world's first mall for reused goods - (see www.retuna.se). The narratives of garments will be documented through interviews with the donors, and we will shadow the garments through the re-cycle process at the ReTuna mall. ReTuna Mall aims for reuse, i.e., to re-introduce disposed garments to the fashion consumers visiting the mall. Accordingly, some garments will re-enter the consumption phase, but most garments are likely to be sorted out and re-defined into other purposes than being wearable. Reuse is one of the most common strategies used by fashion companies in their attempt to make the supply chain sustainable (Kant Hvass, 2016). Obviously, reuse of fashion reduces the demand for new garments, which in turns reduce the negative environmental impact of the textile production processes (Woolridge, Ward, Phillips, Collins, & Gandy, 2006; Farrant, Olsen, & Wangel, 2010; Castellani, Sala, & Mirabella, 2015). Reuse of fashion goods has the same basic structure as that of waste management, i.e., organized in three separate phases: collection, sorting and reprocessing. The literature on reuse in general is extensive, and studies on fashion reuse have become popular too. To give some examples, studies of consumers fashion disposal behaviour concentrate in most cases on disposal channels, behavioural motivations, disposal reasons and demographics of consumers that behave in specified ways (Laitala, 2014). Studies that focus on donation of fashion as disposal method on the other hand (i.e. Ha-Brookshire and Hodges (2009), Ekström, Hjelmgren, and Salomonson (2015) describes general motives for the disposal, but do not uncover the actual process or the activities that are involved in the donation - i.e. why is the individual garment donated and how is the sorting performed. These type of questions are touched upon in studies of the practices of sorting (Jana M. Hawley, 2006; Botticello, 2012), but these do not follow the garments through the whole process. Of interest for us is also studies on waste management in general, e.g., Åkesson's (2012) study on how a disposed goods are transformed and given new meanings as they travel through the phases of reuse; that what is waste at one phase will transform into a resource in another. Disposed goods can also, with or without disassembling, re-appear in different shapes with different meanings at another stage in the process (Gregson, Crang, Ahamed, Akhter, & Ferdous, 2010). As stated above, we trace and document the travel of donated fashion garments through the collection, sorting and reprocessing activities at the mall. For each step we pose two major questions: what happens and who/what are involved in this. In doing so, we take on the ANT approach to our objects of study and consider non-humans as equally possible instigators of actions and inscribers of meaning as humans. From our literature review, we believe that our study provides a somewhat novel approach to fashion reuse, and that it has the potential to contribute to the growing body of knowledge of sustainable fashion.
|
|
| 7. |
|
|
| 8. |
- Hedegård, Lars, 1979-
(författare)
-
Hur kan näringslivssamverkan bidra till ökad kvalitet i undervisningen?
- 2023
-
Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Hur skapar vi en undervisning som är verklighetsnära och ger ömsesidiga fördelar för både studenter och företag? Hur kan utbildning ligga i framkant och alltid hänga med i samhällsutvecklingen? Hur kan vi säkerställa att våra studenter är attraktiva på morgondagens arbetsmarknad?Det här är några av de frågeställningar som kommer att lyftas under seminariet. Handelsrådet tillsammans med Center for Retailing vid Handelshögskolan i Stockholm bjuder in till samtal där samverkan mellan handelsbransch och högre utbildning är i fokus.Under seminariet presenteras olika exempel på god samverkan mellan handelsföretag och högre utbildning. Exemplen belyser samverkan ur olika perspektiv, alltifrån avgränsade samarbeten till fullt integrerade kurser.Deltagare: Helen Rönnholm (The Swedish Retail and Wholesale Council), Jonas Colliander (Stockholm School of Economics), Mårten Fristedt (Linköping University) och Lars Hedegård (University of Borås).
|
|
| 9. |
- Hedegård, Lars, 1979-, et al.
(författare)
-
Hållbar utveckling : Hur hållbar utveckling kan integreras i textila kurser
- 2011
-
Ingår i: PUH: Pedagogiska utvecklingsprojekt i högskolan 2011. - Borås : Högskolan i Borås. ; , s. 37-58
-
Bokkapitel (populärvet., debatt m.m.)abstract
- Som lärare vid Textilhögskolan, Högskolan i Borås upplever vi ett tryck och ett önskemål från flera håll om ett ökat inslag av hållbar utveckling i undervisningen och studenternas utbildning. Från regeringen och högskolansledning finns uttalade krav i t.ex. Högskoleförordningen, Högskolans policy för hållbar utveckling samt i den miljöutredning som genomfördes 2009 att perspektivet ska beaktas vid planering och genomförandeav undervisning. Studenterna vid Textilhögskolan efterfrågar å sin sida en ökad diskussion om hållbar utveckling i de kurser de läser. Högskolans miljöutredning 2009/10 visar också på ett lågt inslag av hållbarutveckling i Textilhögskolans kurser och i flera av kurserna finns inget alls. För den enskilda läraren medför kraven på ökat inslag av hållbarutveckling två frågor att ta ställning till: Vad innebär hållbar utveckling imin kurs och hur ska det implementeras i min kurs?I vårt pedagogiska utvecklingsprojekt närmar vi oss de två frågornagenom att reda ut:Vilka riktlinjer och styrdokument finns för hållbar utvecklingvid Textilhögskolan- Hur hållbar utveckling kan definieras inom textil- och modeindustrin.Vad utmärker utbildning inom hållbar utveckling utifrån ett pedagogiskt perspektiv.Hur kopplas undervisning och lärandemål till hållbar utveckling idag för Modedesignprogrammet och Textilingenjörutbildningen.Vad önskvärd progression är och hur lärandemål för hållbarutveckling kan se ut.Resultatet av vårt arbete är ett förslag på modell på progression inomhållbar utveckling för två av Textilhögskolans utbildningar, förslag på lärandemål inom hållbar utveckling för dessa utbildningar, exempel på läraktiviteter inom hållbar utveckling i fyra kurser samt åtta nyckelfaktorer för en lyckad integrering.
|
|
| 10. |
- Hedegård, Lars, 1979-, et al.
(författare)
-
Management of sustainable fashion retail based on reuse : A struggle with multiple logics
- 2019
-
Ingår i: The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research. - : Informa UK Limited. - 0959-3969 .- 1466-4402.
-
Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- In scholarly conversations, reuse is one of the common suggested strategies to render fashion retail sustainable. Previous research has stressed the complexity of fashion reuse and the importance of a well-organized system. The complexity stems from processes that involve many actors as well as products hard to evaluate. Consequently, it is challenging to organize reuse-based fashion retail, and studies are needed to further develop knowledge regarding how to manage such systems. Hence, the purpose of this paper is to highlight the complexity in the management of such an initiative, by identifying and explaining obstacles as well as implications. With institutional logics as a framework, three local logics (shopping mall, reuse, and work integration) are used to analyze the management of a reuse-based mall. Despite the mall’s success in getting sufficient donations and creating publicity, it has struggled to establish itself as viable reuse-based fashion retail. The findings illustrate the complexity created by the interplay of different logics and how the complexity influences both the daily and strategic management of the mall. Further, the outcome of this interplay depends largely on which rationality is enacted by involved actors. The study also extends literature on institutional logics, showing that differences in individual actors’ attention, knowledge, skills, coordination, and material conditions influence how logics are enacted and managed. We suggest that there are inherent managerial contradictions in the sustainable practices in fashion retail. Thus, in scholarly conversations, it is important to discuss what different divergent sustainability dimensions imply when seeking solutions for sustainable retail. In practice, there is a need to acknowledge and balance the presence of multiple logics, making it crucial to have competence in all logics. Also, managers of reuse-based fashion retail must consciously and continuously scrutinize their own strategies and actions to avoid an imbalance between the logics.
|
|
