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- Bågander, Linnea
(författare)
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Body of movement : (in)forming movement
- 2017
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Licentiatavhandling (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- In dance many choreographers uses neutral garments not to distract too much from the movement the ”natural” body performs. Still these garments paints the body with color, form, identity and movement qualities. The work exemplifies how the body can extend into materiality and through this it questions the borders of the body not only in form, which is usually the case in fashion design, but also in movement qualities as temporal form. Further it high lightens the importance of awareness of movement qualities in materials of dress as they express the form. The potential of dress in dance is explored in three chapters. For each of these, materials were chosen and arranged in order to provide an additional layer to the movement that the body naturally performs, allowing material to transform the body into various figures of movement. The first part introduces the use of dress in dance and how dress acts with the moving body. The second part explores how movement with the origin in the body can extend spatially and the last part focuses on the materials ability to interpret and materialize the movement. The result of this work suggest that dress has the potential in dance as both choreographic tool and movement quality of equal importance as the movement of a body in a dance performance. Further it intersects the aesthetics of dance, a temporal aesthetic, with the aesthetics of garments, as a form based aesthetic, as it suggests dress as temporal design, allowing dress to create a new body of movement.
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| 2. |
- Stasiulyte, Vidmina
(författare)
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Wearing Sound : Foundations of Sonic Design
- 2020
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Konstnärligt arbete (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Fashion is primarily a visual ontology consisting of definitions, theory and methods that are based on visual language. This research revises fashion by approaching it from a different—sonic—perspective wherein sound is considered not as a negative aspect but as a potential source of a new theory and facilitator of the evolution of new methods. Sound is thus presented not as a secondary quality of designed objects, but as the main idea-generator. The research opens new avenues for design thinking with ears rather than eyes. This thesis explores clothing and fashion from the perspective of listening rather than seeing, sounding rather than showing, and is a form of rethinking and redefining fashion by starting with the the statement that dress is sound.An investigation into sonic expressions is seen as a disruptive fashion practice, and could be described as a process of ‘unlearning’—encouraging one to leave behind pre-existing knowledge of fashion expressions by focusing on something else when defining and designing processes. That something else is sonic expressions. By rethinking the dressed body as a matter of sound gestalt, this research goes beyond existing communication models in fashion design to examine sonic language, wherein foundational definitions play a central role and form the basis for the new practice. The research was designed to facilitate the exploration and design of sonic expressions.The research addresses an identified gap in knowledge through the Sonic Fashion Ontology, which constitutes new, foundational knowledge of sonic expression. The research findings challenge existing theory with new terms, definitions, methods, and tools, and show the importance of understanding fashion as a platform for new knowledge production and critical thinking, along with unlearning and rethinking preconceptions of what dress is and could be. Furthermore, the results have implications for ways of thinking in design in relation to e.g. diverse communities such as the visually impaired.
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