| 1. |
- Almeida, Teresa
(författare)
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(e)Textile new materialities
- 2021
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Ingår i: Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice. - UK : Taylor & Francis. - 2051-1787 .- 2051-1795. ; 9:1
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- This paper explores the intersections within bodily materialism and future textiles by inquiring into embodied practices and materiality in care. By plac- ing the body as a site of research, it centres around con- cepts of bodily care and the body as an ecosystem, one that is always in flux and considers the fluidity of bodies and bodily fluids, such as urine, discharge, breath and sweat, as fluids with potential to design with. It looks at how bodies are acted upon by outside forces, and explore more-than-human relations as co-creators in co- habiting the space of the body and that around it. To illustrate this, the paper introduces a series of design research artefacts that take a variety of approaches to exploring the materiality of care in the everyday. First, an eTextile toolkit that aims to create bodily awareness through hands-on engagement with textile crafting tech- nology, then a biotextile harvesting toolkit that involves the raw material of the intimate body that explores DIYbio in the context of the home, and lastly a set of wearable living material-based explorations that recog- nize biomimicry and symbiotic relationships in designing for chronic stress. In embracing notions of bodily materi- alism, this paper explores the bodily abject, i.e. fluids and the more-than-human as crucial to engendering new modes of knowing in intimate and personal care through textile-based materials. The paper engages critically with textile design research and practice by placing material that embraces care as ambivalent at the forefront and thus challeng- ing traditional approaches to health and care and, importantly, the design of future textiles.
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| 2. |
- Keune, Svenja, Research Associate, 1986-
(författare)
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Designing and Living with Organisms Weaving Entangled Worlds as Doing Multispecies Philosophy
- 2021
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Ingår i: Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice. - : Taylor & Francis. - 2051-1787 .- 2051-1795. ; 9:1, s. 9-30
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- The emergence of biodesign opens new ways for textile design and production processes by e.g. using living organisms directly for growing or dyeing textiles. Researchers and designers who engage in such practices often describe their processes as a collaboration with the living. Since maintenance or acts of caring are often fundamental for a successful result, supportive environments for the living are created. However, most of the organisms are only used to carry out a specific task given by the designers’ intention, e.g., excreting pigments to dye a piece of silk, and are killed after the successful completion of the “collaborative” project, which is one of the reasons why the anthropocentric perspective remains an integral part of the textile design process.This research aims to challenge the anthropocentrism inherent in textile design methodologies. Drawing from the work of Donna Haraway, in this exploratory paper, I advocate for exploring more than anthropocentric and multispecies perspectives to textile design by understanding the textile design practice as a way of being-with and staying-with, rather than as a solution-driven practice. Therefore, I revisit and reflect on three stories that derived from encounters between humans and insects in shared textile contexts. The stories on multispecies cohabitation resulted from the autobiographic research ‘Textile Farming’. Weaving connections between contemporary approaches to design, this paper proposes a conceptual framework of the levels that designers can engage with the living e.g., designing with, for, or together with living organisms up to living-with and becoming-with. I found these reflections to offer valuable perspectives to reflect on, analyze, and discuss processes in which living organisms play a role. Consequently, the paper contributes to reflective practice and opens up the textile design practice towards open-ended events as a more than anthropocentric approach to designing textiles.
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| 3. |
- Ribul, Miriam, et al.
(författare)
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Material Translation: Validation and Visualization as Transdisciplinary Methods for Textile Design and Materials Science in the Circular Bioeconomy
- 2018
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Ingår i: Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice . - : Informa UK Limited. - 2051-1787 .- 2051-1795. ; 6:1, s. 66-68
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- This paper presents a textile design and materials science collaboration during two design residencies in a materials science laboratory for regenerated cellulose research. The first residency evidenced that both disciplines are connected through a materials practice in communication and production of materials. This paper presents the aims of design and scientific research in materials experimentation and the scale of materials in each discipline. The cross-disciplinary collaboration developed transdisciplinary methods for textile design and materials science towards circularity of materials in a bioeconomy. A model for material affinity highlights these two new approaches between the design vision of the textiles designer and scientific method in materials science: validation and visualization. The collaboration led to establishing cellulose-based films as a process that can be made in both the design studio and the science laboratory. This paper presents how textile design prototyping in the materials science laboratory during the second residency was informed by scientific method in a transdisciplinary method of validation. Scientific communication of research is here presented as adopting visualization methods from design. Translation is presented as a term for the design-science material experiments taking place in the science laboratory in the collaboration between the authors. Improved communication between technical scientists and textile designers is needed to achieve circularity of regenerated cellulose materials in the emerging bioeconomy. This paper addresses translation as a process taking place during textile design residencies in the material science laboratory. The material experiments improved cross-disciplinary communication at the convergence of scientific method, design vision, visualization and validation processes.
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| 4. |
- Talman, Riikka
(författare)
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Designing for multiple expressions: Questioning permanence as a sign of quality in textiles
- 2019
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Ingår i: The Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice. - : Informa UK Limited. - 2051-1787 .- 2051-1795. ; 6:2, s. 201-221
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Developing alternative materials and methods of production and recycling is crucial to achieving more sustainable, circular textile practices. In addition to these, a shift in how textiles are perceived may well be needed. Textile practice has long sought to create textiles that, regardless of their material or post-production treatments do not subsequently change in expression, eliminating the fading of colors and wearing out of materials. Questioning this in order to evaluate quality, durability, and aesthetics may open up for greater circularity through extending product lifetimes, and allowing change to be embraced rather than delaying the signs of aging. This paper presents work that challenges the notion of permanence as a sign of quality in textiles by shifting the focus towards creating textiles that are capable of developing different visual expressions over time.By examining the natural changes in color of materials in plain and Jacquard-patterned woven textiles made of several materials, this paper explores the possibilities relating to designing textile patterns that can evolve in multiple different directions from one starting point. Textiles woven with a combination of different materials were used in various contexts, including outdoors, in order to explore how the materials reacted. The resulting color combinations varied depending on what conditions the material was exposed to, suggesting a more versatile view on the aesthetics of textiles.The results indicate that various colors, patterns, and structures can be achieved from one starting point, indicating that an alternative definition for quality, based on the aesthetics of change, may be viable. The natural aging of materials could be used in design processes to embed evolving patterns, colors, or structures in textiles, reconnecting textile products with the inherent, changeable qualities of materials.
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| 5. |
- Tsaknaki, Vasiliki
(författare)
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"Vibrant Wearables": Material Encounters with the Body as a Soft System
- 2021
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Ingår i: Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice. - : Taylor & Francis Group. - 2051-1787 .- 2051-1795. ; 9:2, s. 142-163
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- As new materials become available for textile and interaction designers, it is crucial that we develop an understanding of the lived experiences of such materials and explore meaningful contexts for their development. In this paper, we engage with systems in which bodies as materials and materials as bodies constitute an assemblage of vitalities in constant flux with one another. In particular, we address how such systems in their interactions with (non)human bodies blur boundaries between inside and outside the body, and between human and machine, acting as soft systems. Drawing on our first-person, design-led research, we present three design explorations of soft systems that deeply engage with the body: Breathing Wings, Fiddling Necklaces and Menarche Bits. We analyze how the three projects contribute towards what we conceptualize as “vibrant wearables”: wearables that through their material vibrancy surface design qualities of leakiness, characterized by a multi-directionality of “spilling over,” ongoingness, which attends to non-linear temporalities and cycles of life and death, and mutuality that emphasizes the interdependency, and becoming, of vibrant encounters. These three design qualities all conceptually trouble boundaries of bodies and materials and are practical resources for designers and researchers working with the body in/as a soft system. Our work offers concrete examples of how to work with material vibrancy, which is particularly relevant to new materialist discourses in textile, fashion and interaction design. We argue for the generativity of these design qualities for other designers and researchers aiming to elevate materials and soft systems in interactions with bodies. Moreover, we contribute towards design research that conceptually and materially troubles the boundaries of the body, and we argue for attending to the material power of (non)human bodies as a soft system.
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| 6. |
- Tsaknaki, Vasiliki, et al.
(författare)
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"Vibrant wearables": material encounters with the body as a soft system
- 2021
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Ingår i: Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice. - : Routledge. - 2051-1787 .- 2051-1795. ; 9:2, s. 142-163
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- As new materials become available for textile and interaction designers, it is crucial that we develop an understanding of the lived experiences of such materials and explore meaningful contexts for their development. In this paper, we engage with systems in which bodies as materials and materials as bodies constitute an assemblage of vitalities in constant flux with one another. In particular, we address how such systems in their interactions with (non)human bodies blur boundaries between inside and outside the body, and between human and machine, acting as soft systems. Drawing on our first-person, design-led research, we present three design explorations of soft systems that deeply engage with the body: Breathing Wings, Fiddling Necklaces and Menarche Bits. We analyze how the three projects contribute towards what we conceptualize as “vibrant wearables”: wearables that through their material vibrancy surface design qualities of leakiness, characterized by a multi-directionality of “spilling over,” ongoingness, which attends to non-linear temporalities and cycles of life and death, and mutuality that emphasizes the interdependency, and becoming, of vibrant encounters. These three design qualities all conceptually trouble boundaries of bodies and materials and are practical resources for designers and researchers working with the body in/as a soft system. Our work offers concrete examples of how to work with material vibrancy, which is particularly relevant to new materialist discourses in textile, fashion and interaction design. We argue for the generativity of these design qualities for other designers and researchers aiming to elevate materials and soft systems in interactions with bodies. Moreover, we contribute towards design research that conceptually and materially troubles the boundaries of the body, and we argue for attending to the material power of (non)human bodies as a soft system.
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