| 1. |
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| 2. |
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| 3. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
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Academy Award for Costume Design
- 2023
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Ingår i: The Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Film and Television Costume Design. - London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts. - 9781474279420 - 9781474207867
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Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)
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| 4. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
-
Adrian
- 2023
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Ingår i: The Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Film and Television Costume Design. - London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts. - 9781474279451 - 9781474207874
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Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)
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| 5. |
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| 6. |
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| 7. |
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| 8. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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Barbarella's wardrobe : Exploring Jacques Fonteray’s intergalactic runway
- 2016
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Ingår i: Film Fashion and Consumption. - : Intellect. - 2044-2823 .- 2044-2831. ; 5:2, s. 185-211
-
Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Jane Fonda’s intergalactic adventure, Barbarella (Dino De Laurentiis Cinematografica, 1968), looms large in popular culture despite its mild reception in 1968. Disguised under its sartorial splendor, the film’s narrative clearly negotiates social anxieties of the late ‘60s. Similarly, the production design of the film incorporates contemporary elements from art, architecture and fashion. Paco Rabanne is frequently credited as the creator of Fonda’s onscreen parade of highly stylized costumes. Yet, the Spanish designer only created one of her eight outfits. The paper addresses this misconception by exploring how the film’s mise-en-scène captured the contemporary design trends beyond Rabanne’s participation, perpetuating Barbarella as a symbol of its own times.
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| 9. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-, et al.
(författare)
-
Because Fashion Matters : Studying the Intersections of Fashion, Film and Media
- 2015
-
Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- The increasing interest in the study of fashion has opened up to the emergence of Fashion Studies as an independent field, with programs in several universities around the globe. However, the study of fashion should not be regarded as a new phenomenon. For decades, scholars from varied disciplines in the humanities and the social sciences have immersed themselves in the study of fashion, particularly in relation to film and media. Since the early days of cinema, the film industry played a key role in the promotion and representation of fashion. Likewise, its mediated character through newsreels, television, newspapers, magazines, photography and even paintings has facilitated the study of costume and dress history. Film scholars like Jane Gaines, Stella Bruzzi, and Pamela Church Gibson—among others—have vastly contributed to the interdisciplinary study of these intersections. Furthermore, in order to explore the specificities of these areas, Church Gibson launched the journal Fashion Film and Consumption, though the publishing house Intellect Books in 2011.In this contemporary setting, a pertinent and necessary topic to explore is the demands on interdisciplinary approaches, both from the side of Fashion Studies scholars with a purist point of view, and from their counterpoints in Film and Media more likely to envelop fashion in visual culture as a whole.As discussions regarding delimitations and canons take place behind close doors in fashion programs, the need to open up such debate to Film and Media scholars is vital to the future of a field that has seen a great part of its development through these neighboring contributions. The workshop will explore the study of Film, Media and Fashion in coexistence with the emergence of Fashion Studies as an independent field, focusing on questions of methodology, theory and practice through the experience of different film and media scholars working with fashion and film. Before opening up the floor for discussion, a brief set of presentations will serve as a framework to address the debate, engaging the audience in reflections surrounding the following questions: What are the challenges and advantages of film and media scholars engaging in fashion research? Is Fashion Studies an exclusive realm for fashion scholars? Is there one singular way to study and teach fashion independently from its neighboring disciplines? What can different approaches used in Film and Media Studies contribute to the study of fashion? To what extent can Fashion Studies exist as a totally independent field, avoiding connections with Film and Media?
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| 10. |
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| 11. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
-
Bob Mackie
- 2023
-
Ingår i: The Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Film and Television Costume Design. - London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts. - 9781472521552
-
Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)
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| 12. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
-
Branding the Oscarcast : The public relations strategies that established the academy awards ceremony as a media spectacle
- 2023
-
Ingår i: Historical Journal of Film, Radio and Television. - : Informa UK Limited. - 0143-9685 .- 1465-3451. ; 43:1, s. 109-127
-
Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- The Academy Awards ceremony is the most popular award-giving ceremony in media culture. This article explores the efforts for turning the event into a commercially profitable television product by exploring the public relations activities that shaped it during the 1950s. In doing so, these findings debunk the mythologized conception of television’s longstanding interest in broadcasting the event as allegedly colliding with Hollywood’s resistance to entering the new medium. It argues that the Oscarcast emerged from a trial-and-error strategy, consolidating through the professionalization of public relations tactics that included the year-round communication of activities related to the ceremony, the construction of a press pavilion, the exploitation of a fashion angle to attract female audiences, and a subsequent broadening of their audience strategies to expand its appeal to sponsors.
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| 13. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
-
Classical Hollywood
- 2023
-
Ingår i: The Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Film and Television Costume Design. - London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts. - 9781474279420 - 9781474207867
-
Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)
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| 14. |
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| 15. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
-
Costume/Fashion
- 2023
-
Ingår i: The Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Film and Television Costume Design. - London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts. - 9781474279420 - 9781474207867
-
Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)
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| 16. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
-
Cuerpos de Emulación Pecuniaria : Estrellas de Hollywood como elemento homogeneizador de la femineidad e identidad nacional en los Estados Unidos
- 2017
-
Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
- El fin del siglo XIX acarreó cambios sustanciales para las mujeres en los Estados Unidos. El cambio de paradigma que permitió a hombres y mujeres compartir la esfera pública, el creciente rol de la mujer en el ámbito laboral, el surgimiento del culto a la “personalidad,” y la consolidación de la industria del cine tuvieron incidencia directa en la reconfiguración de la femineidad y la búsqueda de una identidad nacional entre las jóvenes inmigrantes de la clase trabajadora de los Estados Unidos. Lentamente, las estrellas de cine ganaron prestigio como símbolos de belleza y movilidad social para miles de jóvenes mujeres gracias a la circulación de imágenes en suplementos dominicales y revistas especializadas en cine. En breve, la industria del cine Estadounidense comenzó a replicar los formatos de revistas como Photoplay y Motion Picture Magazine para los países de habla hispana, propagando su hegemonía a lo largo y a lo ancho del continente. Parte fundamental del proceso de identificación está ligado al creciente uso de estrellas de cine en publicidades de productos de belleza y moda. La agencia de publicidad J. W. Thompson fue el eje fundamental de dicha dinámica. La empresa contaba con un grupo de mujeres ejecutivas a cargo de las cuentas correspondientes as productos de belleza. Estas mujeres, en su mayoría pertenecientes al movimiento sufragista de los Estados Unidos, tuvieron un rol fundamental en el desarrollo de productos y campañas orientadas al público femenino. La presentación dará un paneo histórico sobre la transición de estos cuerpos de emulación pecuniaria con el fin de comprender el cambio cultural que llevó a las estrellas de Hollywood de símbolos la “Americanization” de la diáspora en los Estados Unidos a convertirse en sinónimo de glamour y sofisticación para mujeres alrededor del mundo.
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| 17. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
-
Dior Salve a la Reina : Cristina Fernández's Fashionable Pleasures and her Constant War Against the Media
- 2013
-
Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
- Is an austerity discourse compatible with ostentation? And if so, how can the contempt against the middle class be compatible with the veneration of a wealthy leader? Why is Cristina Fernandez’s indulgent luxury forgiven while the working middle class is stigmatized as privileged oligarchs? How does this relate to the controversial and iconic figure of Eva Duarte de Perón? The paper describes the dichotomy between Cristina Fernandez’s national populist discourse and her personal preference for high-end brands that had turned her into a fashion icon, capturing the attention of fashion bloggers, international newspapers, and even Vogue. Theoretically framed by O’Donell’s conceptualization of Delegative Democracies, the presentation will explore how disguised under a veneer of socialism—and pursuing Chavez’s model for Venezuela—Argentina’s president has mobilized a campaign to control the local Media leading to a confrontation with those journalists who persistently try to unmask her luxurious lifestyle, shopping preferences, and unclear finances. This contradiction between luxury and utterance is not new to the Argentine masses. The iconic figure of Evita was often under attack, accused of enjoying the same lifestyle as those she criticized. The parallelism between these two figures draws an interesting conclusion about the role of Media, performance, nostalgia, and fandom in Latin-American politics.*Play on words exchanging Dios (God in Spanish) for Dior as in “Dior (God) Save the Queen.”
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| 18. |
- Castaldo Lunden, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
-
Edith Head : From Costume Designer to Fashion Expert
- 2019
-
Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Costume designer Edith Head has become a symbol of Hollywood costume designers. With more than 50 years of career designing for the big screen, her iconic look has inspired several characters that pay homage to her legacy. Edith Head started her career in 1924 as Howard Greer’s assistant. Without any background in drawing or costume design, Head rapidly ascended to head of the costume department in 1937, when Travis Banton left Paramount and join Howard Greer in his Beverly Hills fashion atelier. Scholars have presented her career as a linear story of costume design success, focusing mostly on her time at Paramount Pictures and basing arguments onHead’s own media declarations. However, Head’s media appearances and the widespread popularity as a public persona demonstrate that a large part of her work for the studio rested on being a promoter by exploiting her role as a mediator of fashion discourses for female audiences. Head used the looks of the stars to educate women into finding “their type” and showed them how to adapt screen looks for real-life situations. This paper looks at the role of Edith Head as a cultural translator of fashion, guiding American woman into the meaning of style and femininity in post-war America, by focusing on Head’s radio segments, books, and her work as the Academy Awards fashion consultant. The presentation will demonstrate that Head was a key PR figure for the studio and that this strategy also worked on her favor to perpetuate her position in the job market after the demise of the studio system.
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| 19. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
-
Edith Head
- 2023
-
Ingår i: The Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Film and Television Costume Design. - London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts. - 9781474279451 - 9781474207874
-
Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)
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| 20. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
-
Exploring Fashion as Communication : The search for a new fashion history against the grain
- 2020
-
Ingår i: Popular Communication. - : Informa UK Limited. - 1540-5702 .- 1540-5710. ; 18:4, s. 249-258
-
Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- This introductory essay calls for a new fashion media history informed by truly interdisciplinary scholarship, nuanced in both fashion and media studies. It reflects upon the ways in which the study of fashion as communication and fashion journalism have been addressed, arguing that fashion studies has laid out a western backbone of this history that invites and deserves to be confirmed and contested. It encourages future authors to find those fashion media discourses, voices, and practices that brought attention to fashion and dress moving past the so-called ‘fashion bibles’ to unravel discourses reaching popular audiences, underrepresented minorities, unlisted geographies, and subcultures.
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| 21. |
- Castaldo Lunden, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
-
Fashion on the red carpet : A history of the Oscars, fashion and globalisation
- 2021
-
Bok (refereegranskat)abstract
- The Academy Awards’ red-carpet is the most prominent fashion show in media culture. Fashion on the Red Carpet investigates the historical liaison between Hollywood and fashion institutions, to describe how public relations campaigns and the media articulate fashion discourses around the Oscars. The power-shift towards television, the emergence of celebrity culture, the post-war reactivation of transatlantic trade, the growth of fashion journalism, and the increasing circulation of designer names in the media, are converging factors leading to the institutionalisation of the red-carpet as a fashion event in its own right.Departing from archival sources, and tracing discourses of fashion, stardom, and celebrity surrounding Hollywood and the Oscars, this fascinating book explains how the red-carpet became a marquee for the endorsement of high-end fashion brands.
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| 22. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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Fearless Fashion : Rudi Gernreich
- 2020
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Ingår i: Fashion Theory. - 1362-704X .- 1751-7419. ; 24:5, s. 783-794
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Forskningsöversikt (refereegranskat)
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| 23. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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From Scarcity to Abundance : How Digitized Material Demands Academic Cooperation
- 2017
-
Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- The recent proliferation of free-access digital archives opened a new era of research in which costs decrease as information flourishes. This abundance represents countless possibilities, but as material becomes more vast and accessible, the anxieties for publishing increase, in a profession that already dealt with a haunting “race against time” to present results. In addition, the challenge of accessing larger bulks of material builds up pressure, calling for more precision in arguments, as results derive from a larger amount of primary sources. The use of fan magazines as sources for academic research is vast in film and media studies, but its potential across newer fields—such as fashion and celebrity studies—is increasingly bringing more players into the game. Moving forward with these changes without analyzing the extent of their impact would be awry. In this landscape, Carlo Ginzburg’s Microhistory and Walter Benjamin’s problematization of historical debris need to be revisited, not in metatheoretical manner, but rather in a search for answers in this new reconfiguration. My argument for this workshop is that abundance and time constrains enable a reformulation of research questions and the emergence of a more collaborative research environment; more material also requires more contextual knowledge, making the bulk of work increase exponentially. In addition, I call to not lose from sight that abundance does not imply completion, calling for awareness of the—always-tempting—illusion of historical completion.This presentation explores the potentials and anxieties brought by the abundance and accessibility of digital archives, as it also intends to offer an overview of a potential reconfiguration of academic work enabled by these new research platforms. As with every workshop, I bring more questions that answer to open up for debate. How can we get pass the anxiety of abundance? Do we need to “zoom in” deeper when conducting research in this new landscape? How do research networks reconfigure as more material becomes electronically available? Is this new availability of material opening up for historical revisionisms? How do we incorporate these tools in the classroom?
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| 24. |
- Castaldo Lunden, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
-
Hollywood In and Out : A Look into the Academy Awards Ceremony's Transition from Private Banquet to Public Spectacle
- 2019
-
Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- The Academy Awards ceremony is the foremost reference to Hollywood gatherings. Since its inception, in 1929, the event has shifted format and itinerated in different locations, frequently outside the confinements of Hollywood city. Several of these changes of venue bare a close relation with political decisions, the events’ increasing popularity, and the technological developments that turned the ceremony into a media event. Key to this mediatization of the Oscars is how the ceremony transformed from a private banquet into a public spectacle. This paper looks into such a transition from a private gathering into a public spectacle and the consequent spatial reconfigurations.It is necessary to problematize the conceptualization of Hollywood, understanding it as a fluid idea that works both as a geographical space and as well as a community striving for prestige. This paper engages with Michel Foucault’s concept of heterotopia to help elucidate how the U.S. film industry’s appropriation of the notion of Hollywood allowed it to function as an abstract conception for the mediascape instead of anchoring the event to a geographical area. The first Oscars ceremony took place at the Roosevelt Hotel, in Hollywood. By 1930, the Academy Awards moved outside Hollywood, at the Ambassador Hotel’s Cocoanut Grove in Los Angeles. A big leap from private gatherings to public spectacle took place in 1944 when the ceremony changed the format and moved into Grauman’s Chinese Theatre. Historical discourses around the event attribute such shift to a search for austerity during wartime. I argue that rather than lowering the event's profile as a gesture of austerity, the move into movie venues turned the ceremony into a grandiose public spectacle that function as the steppingstone for the media event we see today. By 1947, the Oscars had already moved out of Hollywood. Despite the restless migratory patterns that took the ceremony continued carrying its aura as the quintessential spectacle “live from Hollywood.” It was not until the construction of the Kodak Theatre was completed, in 2002, that the ceremony established in Hollywood for good. This presentation provides a historical overview of the Academy Awards Ceremony from a spatial perspective by looking at the venues in which it was organized, their infrastructure, and the arrangements required as a consequence of technological media shifts and the events’ increasing popularity.
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| 25. |
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| 26. |
- Castaldo Lunden, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
-
Introduction : Exploring the Intersection of Fashion, Film, and Media
- 2018
-
Ingår i: Networking Knowledge: Journal of the MeCCSA Postgraduate Network. - : Networking Knowledge MeCCSA PGN Journal. - 1755-9944. ; 11:1, s. 1-6
-
Tidskriftsartikel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- This special issue belongs to a series of activities under the umbrella denomination “Studying and Exploring the Intersections of Fashion, Film, and Media Studies,” created in 2014 by film scholar Anne Bachmann and I. Our goal was to promote an interdisciplinary perspective to the study of fashion, film, and media. This venture was launched with two activities at the 2015 edition of the annual conference of the Society for Cinema and Media Studies, in Montreal. The first activity consisted of a panel featuring the on-going projects of four Ph.D. students working with these combined fields.[1] The second activity consisted of a workshop, in which presentations opened to discussions addressing how the use of archival material and film fan magazines, combined with film studies’ methodological approach to history, could benefit fashion research.[2] This workshop expanded into a Symposium at Stockholm University featuring established scholars who pioneered research in these fields of studies combined. This special issue of Networking Knowledge seeks to include early career researchers in such conversation, broadening the network of scholars and the combined field of expertise. Since its inception, a historical approach has been encouraged by the founders of this project. Yet, the semiotic roots used for textual analysis of costume design shall not be overlooked. In this sense, this special issue intends to present a panorama of the heterogeneous nature of studies in these interconnected fields.
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| 27. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
-
Jacques Fonteray
- 2023
-
Ingår i: The Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Film and Television Costume Design. - London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts.
-
Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)
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| 28. |
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| 29. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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Lo squalo, le strategie di marketing della Universal e la construzione della "Jawsmania"
- 2015
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Ingår i: Cinergie. - 2280-9481. ; 7, s. 27-35
-
Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Jaws (Steven Spielberg, 1975) set a new standard for Hollywood film production by introducing the concept of “summer blockbuster,” but it also changed the way in which people thought about sharks. Almost 40 years after the release of the movie, the idea of sharks as ferocious man-hunters still underpins public opinion. This conceptualization of sharks as ruthless killers is mythical rather than factual, and in this presentation I intend to track the mechanisms that rooted the idea deep into popular culture. My research addresses the problematic of media constructions through a case study of the movie Jaws by looking into the production process, and applying Barbara Klinger’s interpretation of Epiphenomena (1989). Through intensive archival work, the paper studies how cinema travels into popular culture, by following the traces of the movie into other media, and the surrounding texts linked to marketing and merchandising; underlining its position as an integral part in the construction of myths, while tying to prove the connection between the movie and the stigmatized portrayal of sharks.
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| 30. |
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| 31. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
-
No Oscar for The Oscar? : Behind Hollywood's Walk of Greed
- 2014
-
Ingår i: Networking Knowledge. - : Networking Knowledge MeCCSA PGN Journal. - 1755-9944. ; 7:4, s. 1-16
-
Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- In 1966 the popular interest in the Academy Awards propelled Paramount Pictures to produce The Oscar (Embassy Pictures-Paramount Pictures, 1966), a film based on the homonymous novel by Richard Sale. The Oscar tells the story of an unscrupulous actor willing to do anything in his power to obtain the golden statuette, regardless of whom he has to take down along the way. Building up on fantasies of social mobility, we see the protagonist (Frankie) display his vanity, arrogance and greed to create a less than likeable character whose only hope to put his career back on track lies in obtaining the precious statuette. The movie intends to be a sneak peek behind the scenes of the biggest award ceremony, but also behind the lifestyle of the Hollywood elites, their glory and their misery as part of the Hollywood disposal machinery. Despite not being financed or officially supported by the Academy, the film intertwines elements of fiction and reality by using real footage of the event, and featuring several contemporary representatives of the movie industry such as Edith Head, Hedda Hopper, Frank and Nancy Sinatra, playing cameo roles, adding up to the inter-textual capacities of the story. Head’s participation was particularly exploited for the promotion of the film, taking advantage of her position at Paramount, her status as a multiple winner, and her role as a fashion consultant for the Academy Awards. This paper is an analytical account of the film’s production process. Through a close look to its publicity, it will unravel how the studios relied on the awards, and all possible inter-textual capacities to promote the film, despite the Academy’s distancing from the project.
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| 32. |
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| 33. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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Oscar Night in Hollywood : Fashioning the Red-Carpet from the Roosevelt Hotel to International Media
- 2018
-
Doktorsavhandling (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- This study investigates the red-carpet phenomenon from a historical perspective, seeking to understand how the Academy Awards’ red-carpet became the most prominent fashion show in media culture. The connections between Hollywood and the fashion industry predate the inception of the ceremony, and so does the role of Hollywood actresses as trendsetters. However, this pseudo-event epitomizes precisely this liaison. This research focuses on several historical constellations to account for the influence of media shifts, the public relations dynamics of the event, the changes in the fashion and film industries, and the role of key players in the dissemination of fashion discourses in relation to Hollywood. By delving into archival sources, and tracing discourses of fashion, stardom, and celebrity surrounding Hollywood and the Oscars, this dissertation shows how the red-carpet gained such status, functioning today as a marquee for celebrity endorsement of high-end fashion brands.Chapter 1 provides a historical overview of the event, identifying key moments in the configuration of the Oscars and its red-carpet event. Chapter 2 discusses the role of gatekeepers as mediators of cultural capital. This contextualizes the connections between Hollywood and fashion journalism, and the emergence and development of the best- and worst- dressed lists in the U.S. Chapter 3 analyzes the role of advertising and endorsement practices in the circulation of ideas that set Hollywood personalities as influencers. In addition, the legal aspects of testimonials, the notion of “red-carpet treatment” in association with the emergence of lifestyle advertising, and the coronation of “Oscar” as a celebrity in its own right are discussed. Chapter 4 focuses on the career of Edith Head, looking into her popular appeal as Hollywood’s foremost “fashion expert.” Chapter 5 explores the dynamics of fashion at the Academy Awards, Head’s crucial role as the Academy Awards’ Fashion Consultant, and what may be considered the first Academy Awards’ fashion pre-show. Chapter 6 is pivoted on the role of television networks and sponsors in the inception of the Oscarcast, and the public relations dynamics that set fashion at the forefront by branding this media event as an international fashion show free-for-all. The dissertation closes with a case study of the film The Oscar (Embassy Films, 1966), which amalgamates the kaleidoscope of ideas explored in the previous six chapters.This transdisciplinary study concludes that WWII marked a turning point in the history of the Academy Awards. The postwar culture was characterized by the power-shift towards television, the emergence of celebrity culture, the expansion of consumer culture, the reactivation of transatlantic trade, the growth of fashion journalism, and an increasing circulation of national and international designer names in the media. In this context, promotional practices that put Hollywood designers and stars at the forefront turned into an optimal platform for the proliferation of fashion discourses around the Oscars. This has been momentous for the conceptualization of the Oscarcast as a fashion show since its inception in 1953.
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| 34. |
- Castaldo Lunden, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
-
Pedagogies of Perspective : The Challenges and Opportunities of Teaching Moving Images and Gender in a Multicultural Classroom
- 2020
-
Konferensbidrag (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Master level and optional (Fristående) courses represent a challenge for educators insofar as they gather students from a varied set of disciplines and cultural backgrounds. The challenges range from the students’ home country approach to higher education pedagogy, different disciplinary background, or even different levels of academic accomplishments that go beyond the standardization of academic degrees. Sensitive topics addressed in the humanities, such as questions of gender, sexuality, race, ethnicity, or class, can be particularly challenging when students are encouraged to engage in seminar discussions within a multicultural background. This paper looks at the pedagogic ways in which educators can address these challenges by creating safe environments of discussions that directly engage with the cultural perspective of students while integrating the use of historical sources available in digital archives. The case study is based on a pilot experience conducted during the seminars for the course Moving Images and Gender; a free-standing course in the Film section of the Department of Media Studies. The results of this experience showed that students could attain a degree of distance from the object of study if reflecting upon certain film representations from a historical angle. Allowing the students to present historical examples from their cultures using an analytical/critical perspective helped them reflect upon the discussed topics while developing an emotional distance from the cultural baggage. This approach to seminars reduced the affective response to critical analysis. The students shifted their role from subjects immerse in cultural heritage to cultural mediators, guiding their colleagues into a discovery of cross-cultural perspectives.
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| 35. |
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| 36. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
-
Product Placement
- 2023
-
Ingår i: The Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Film and Television Costume Design. - London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts.
-
Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)
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| 37. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
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Reporting fashion : Fashioning moving images from newsreels to web series
- 2022
-
Ingår i: Insights on Fashion Journalism. - London : Routledge. - 9781003035688 ; , s. 69-87
-
Bokkapitel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Fashion has historically relied on visual culture for representation and promotion. Since the early days of film, moving images mediated culture, functioning as entertainment and style guides for working-class women. The fashion and media industries have crossed paths ever since. Far from stopping this dynamic, the advent of the Internet garnered new opportunities to produce and disseminate fashion-related audio-visual content. In recent years, media companies targeting younger audiences began producing short Web series for free streaming on company websites and platforms such as YouTube. This chapter locates fashion newsfilms and Web series within journalistic discourse through their connection to broadcasting and the printed press. Departing from archival sources and resting on the notion of glocalisation, it argues for the historical role of fashion newsfilms as key to a geopolitical reconfiguration that demarcated the centre and periphery, positioning the West at the centre of an imagined global fashion and beauty culture. In so doing, this chapter situates fashion Web series as the materialisation of early aspirations to expand modern consumer culture within a complex matrix of emerging, dominant, and residual cultural flows, co-opting countercultural discourses of fashion, dress, and beauty and reducing them to branding tags for corporate media products.
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| 38. |
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| 39. |
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| 40. |
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| 41. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-, et al.
(författare)
-
The Costume Designers Guild, IATSE Local 892
- 2023
-
Ingår i: The Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Film and Television Costume Design. - London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts. - 9781474279420 - 9781474207867
-
Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)
|
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| 42. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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The Future in the Past : Exploring Barbarella’s Intergalactic Catwalk
- 2016
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Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
- Despite its controversial reception in 1968, Barbarella (Dino De Laurentiis Cinematografica, 1968) looms large in popular culture. Disguised under its sartorial splendor, the film’s narrative clearly negotiates social anxieties of the late ‘60s. Similarly, its production design incorporates contemporary elements present in art, architecture and fashion that stand today as a symbol of the space age design. Arguably, these elements of style, along with its camp representation of the future, played a key role in catapulting the film to its cult status. Spanish designer Paco Rabanne is frequently credited for the creation of Jane Fonda’s onscreen parade of highly stylized costumes. Moreover, fashion magazines oftentimes associate the overall aesthetic of his brand to his past contrubution in the film, which has served for framing runway shows and inspiring collections to date. However, the man responsible for creating fashion for Roger Vadim's vision of the year 40,000 was French costume designer Jacques Fonteray. The case of Paco Rabanne and Barbarella serves as an interesting example of how popular culture appropriates history, contributing to the construction of myths through media. Grounded on archival research, this article explores the role of Jacques Fonteray in the overall creation of the Jane Fonda's costumes, debunking popular misconception regarding Paco Rabanne’s influence on the film’s overall aesthetics.
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| 43. |
- Castaldo Lunden, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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The most famous costume designer : constructing Edith Head’s narrative from school teacher to Hollywood stardust
- 2019
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Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
- Costume designer Edith Head has become a symbol of Hollywood costume designers. With more than 50 years career designing for the big screen,her iconic look has inspired several characters that pay homage to her legacy. Edith Head started her career in 1924 as Howard Greer’s assistant. Without any background in drawing or costume design, Head rapidly ascended to head of the costume department in 1937, when Travis Banton left Paramount and join Howard Greer in his Beverly Hills fashion atelier. Scholars have presented her career as a linear story of costume design success, focusing mostly on her time at Paramount Pictures and basing arguments onHead’s own media declarations. However, Head’s media appearances and the widespread popularity as a public persona demonstrate that a large part of her work for the studio rested on being a promoter by exploiting her role as a mediator of fashion discourses for female audiences. Head used the looks of the stars to educate women into finding “their type” and showed them how to adapt screen looks for real life situations. Storytelling became key to Her media appearances rehashed anecdotes from Hollywood’s golden age, building her own celebrity status through the discursively constructed proximity to Hollywood stars.This paper looks at the media construction of Edith Head as symbol of Hollywood success through her media appearances as costume designer and fashion expert. Drawing from archival holdings at the Margaret Herrick Library of the Academy of Motion Pictures Arts and Sciences and the Wisconsin Film and Theater Research center, the study focuses on Head’s battle horse anecdotes that filled in interviews, radio segments, books, as well as her work as the Academy Awards fashion consultant. The presentation will demonstrate that Head was a key PR figure for the studio and that this strategy also worked on her favor to perpetuate her position in the job market after the demise of the studio system by means of her own acquired celebrity flare.
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| 44. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, Assistant Professor, 1974-
(författare)
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The Most Famous Costume Designer : Reviewing Edith Head’s Career through a Contractual Lens
- 2022
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Ingår i: Film History. An International Journal. - : Indiana University Press. - 0892-2160 .- 1553-3905. ; 34:4, s. 30-58
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Edith Head, possibly Hollywood’s most iconic costume designer, won a record eight Oscar statuettes for Best Costume Design. Despite her popularity, Head has also sparked controversy; many detractors question her talent as a designer by arguing that her success rested merely on her self-promotional efforts rather than her work inside the wardrobe department. This article explores Head’s career vis-à-vis the discourses surrounding her public persona to understand how she constructed her image as Hollywood’s most famous costume designer, surviving for over five decades in an industry fraught with constant economic and political turmoil. In doing so, this article will shed light on the activities assigned to her as head of costume during and after the studio era.
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| 45. |
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| 46. |
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| 48. |
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| 49. |
- Castaldo Lundén, Elizabeth, 1974-
(författare)
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Who Cares About the Best-Dressed? : Mr. Blackwell's Infamous List and the Art of Self-Branding
- 2014
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Konferensbidrag (refereegranskat)abstract
- Before Joan Rivers’s Fashion Police (E! Entertainment, 2002- ), there was a man who made a reputation in Hollywood for his outspoken criticism of celebrity style. Provocative, overopinionated, controversial, admired, hated and feared; self proclaimed fashion’s advocate Richard Blackwell achieved worldwide recognition after launching his annual 10 Worst Dresed List in 1960. His outrageous comments against celebrities catapulted him to stardom, and turned him into a popular culture icon. Yet, the articulation of his list was a clear act of Winchellism rather than a sincere call for style. But, how much did Blackwell know about fashion? How did he become an authority on how American women should dress and behave? Overlooked by the fashion industry, Mr. Blackwell achieved a status among popular audiences that his more knowledgable detractors could not outshine. This paper looks at historical reception of Mr. Blackwell as a victimizer, but also a victim of celebrity culture. A master of performance and self branding rather than a fashion conoceur. A man seeking fame and recognition, who cleverly found a nische in the enterteinment industry through his controversial statements about stars, style and fashion, propelling a skyrocketing career in Hollywood he so longed for, and becoming a symbol for “all publicity is good publicity.”
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| 50. |
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Exploring the Intersections of Fashion, Film, and Media
- 2018
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Samlingsverk (redaktörskap) (refereegranskat)abstract
- Since the turn of the twentieth century, the film industry has played a key role in the promotion and representation of fashion. Likewise, fashion’s mediated character through newsreels, television, newspapers, magazines, photography, and even paintings has facilitated the study of costume and dress history. Film scholars have dedicated efforts to the study of fashion, film, and media, focusing mostly but not exclusively on matters of representation through costume design. Significant contributions from scholars like Jane Gaines, Stella Bruzzi, Tamar Jeffers McDonald, and Adrienne Munich among others have paved the way for an interdisciplinary approach to study fashion from a film and media perspective and shaped a multitude of intercultural links between cinema and other media practices. Far from being an exhausted topic, however, the intersections between the fashion and film industries offer a vast potential that is increasingly becoming of interest to early career scholars around the globe. This special issue seeks to widen the existing research network, presenting articles from postgraduate students and early career researchers from different background with a dedicated interest in researching the intersections between fashion, film, and media. These papers provide an overview of the ways in which these areas of study overlap and intertwine.
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