| 1. |
- Chen, Zhishan, et al.
(författare)
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Fine-mapping analysis including over 254 000 East Asian and European descendants identifies 136 putative colorectal cancer susceptibility genes
- 2024
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Ingår i: Nature Communications. - : Springer Nature. - 2041-1723. ; 15:1
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Genome-wide association studies (GWAS) have identified more than 200 common genetic variants independently associated with colorectal cancer (CRC) risk, but the causal variants and target genes are mostly unknown. We sought to fine-map all known CRC risk loci using GWAS data from 100,204 cases and 154,587 controls of East Asian and European ancestry. Our stepwise conditional analyses revealed 238 independent association signals of CRC risk, each with a set of credible causal variants (CCVs), of which 28 signals had a single CCV. Our cis-eQTL/mQTL and colocalization analyses using colorectal tissue-specific transcriptome and methylome data separately from 1299 and 321 individuals, along with functional genomic investigation, uncovered 136 putative CRC susceptibility genes, including 56 genes not previously reported. Analyses of single-cell RNA-seq data from colorectal tissues revealed 17 putative CRC susceptibility genes with distinct expression patterns in specific cell types. Analyses of whole exome sequencing data provided additional support for several target genes identified in this study as CRC susceptibility genes. Enrichment analyses of the 136 genes uncover pathways not previously linked to CRC risk. Our study substantially expanded association signals for CRC and provided additional insight into the biological mechanisms underlying CRC development.
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| 2. |
- Fernandez-Rozadilla, Ceres, et al.
(författare)
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Deciphering colorectal cancer genetics through multi-omic analysis of 100,204 cases and 154,587 controls of European and east Asian ancestries
- 2023
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Ingår i: Nature Genetics. - : Nature Publishing Group. - 1061-4036 .- 1546-1718. ; 55, s. 89-99
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Colorectal cancer (CRC) is a leading cause of mortality worldwide. We conducted a genome-wide association study meta-analysis of 100,204 CRC cases and 154,587 controls of European and east Asian ancestry, identifying 205 independent risk associations, of which 50 were unreported. We performed integrative genomic, transcriptomic and methylomic analyses across large bowel mucosa and other tissues. Transcriptome- and methylome-wide association studies revealed an additional 53 risk associations. We identified 155 high-confidence effector genes functionally linked to CRC risk, many of which had no previously established role in CRC. These have multiple different functions and specifically indicate that variation in normal colorectal homeostasis, proliferation, cell adhesion, migration, immunity and microbial interactions determines CRC risk. Crosstissue analyses indicated that over a third of effector genes most probably act outside the colonic mucosa. Our findings provide insights into colorectal oncogenesis and highlight potential targets across tissues for new CRC treatment and chemoprevention strategies.
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| 3. |
- Bien, Stephanie A., et al.
(författare)
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Genetic variant predictors of gene expression provide new insight into risk of colorectal cancer
- 2019
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Ingår i: Human Genetics. - : Springer. - 0340-6717 .- 1432-1203. ; 138:4, s. 307-326
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Genome-wide association studies have reported 56 independently associated colorectal cancer (CRC) risk variants, most of which are non-coding and believed to exert their effects by modulating gene expression. The computational method PrediXcan uses cis-regulatory variant predictors to impute expression and perform gene-level association tests in GWAS without directly measured transcriptomes. In this study, we used reference datasets from colon (n=169) and whole blood (n=922) transcriptomes to test CRC association with genetically determined expression levels in a genome-wide analysis of 12,186 cases and 14,718 controls. Three novel associations were discovered from colon transverse models at FDR0.2 and further evaluated in an independent replication including 32,825 cases and 39,933 controls. After adjusting for multiple comparisons, we found statistically significant associations using colon transcriptome models with TRIM4 (discovery P=2.2x10(-4), replication P=0.01), and PYGL (discovery P=2.3x10(-4), replication P=6.7x10(-4)). Interestingly, both genes encode proteins that influence redox homeostasis and are related to cellular metabolic reprogramming in tumors, implicating a novel CRC pathway linked to cell growth and proliferation. Defining CRC risk regions as one megabase up- and downstream of one of the 56 independent risk variants, we defined 44 non-overlapping CRC-risk regions. Among these risk regions, we identified genes associated with CRC (P<0.05) in 34/44 CRC-risk regions. Importantly, CRC association was found for two genes in the previously reported 2q25 locus, CXCR1 and CXCR2, which are potential cancer therapeutic targets. These findings provide strong candidate genes to prioritize for subsequent laboratory follow-up of GWAS loci. This study is the first to implement PrediXcan in a large colorectal cancer study and findings highlight the utility of integrating transcriptome data in GWAS for discovery of, and biological insight into, risk loci.
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| 4. |
- Huyghe, Jeroen R., et al.
(författare)
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Discovery of common and rare genetic risk variants for colorectal cancer
- 2019
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Ingår i: Nature Genetics. - : Nature Publishing Group. - 1061-4036 .- 1546-1718. ; 51:1, s. 76-
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- To further dissect the genetic architecture of colorectal cancer (CRC), we performed whole-genome sequencing of 1,439 cases and 720 controls, imputed discovered sequence variants and Haplotype Reference Consortium panel variants into genome-wide association study data, and tested for association in 34,869 cases and 29,051 controls. Findings were followed up in an additional 23,262 cases and 38,296 controls. We discovered a strongly protective 0.3% frequency variant signal at CHD1. In a combined meta-analysis of 125,478 individuals, we identified 40 new independent signals at P < 5 x 10(-8), bringing the number of known independent signals for CRC to similar to 100. New signals implicate lower-frequency variants, Kruppel-like factors, Hedgehog signaling, Hippo-YAP signaling, long noncoding RNAs and somatic drivers, and support a role for immune function. Heritability analyses suggest that CRC risk is highly polygenic, and larger, more comprehensive studies enabling rare variant analysis will improve understanding of biology underlying this risk and influence personalized screening strategies and drug development.
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| 5. |
- Shungin, Dmitry, et al.
(författare)
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Using genetics to test the causal relationship of total adiposity and periodontitis : Mendelian randomization analyses in the Gene-Lifestyle Interactions and Dental Endpoints (GLIDE) Consortium
- 2015
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Ingår i: International Journal of Epidemiology. - : Oxford University Press (OUP). - 0300-5771 .- 1464-3685. ; 44:2, s. 638-650
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Background: The observational relationship between obesity and periodontitis is widely known, yet causal evidence is lacking. Our objective was to investigate causal associations between periodontitis and body mass index (BMI). Methods: We performed Mendelian randomization analyses with BMI-associated loci combined in a genetic risk score (GRS) as the instrument for BMI. All analyses were conducted within the Gene-Lifestyle Interactions and Dental Endpoints (GLIDE) Consortium in 13 studies from Europe and the USA, including 49 066 participants with clinically assessed (seven studies, 42.1% of participants) and self-reported (six studies, 57.9% of participants) periodontitis and genotype data (17 672/31 394 with/without periodontitis); 68 761 participants with BMI and genotype data; and 57 871 participants (18 881/38 990 with/without periodontitis) with data on BMI and periodontitis. Results: In the observational meta-analysis of all participants, the pooled crude observational odds ratio (OR) for periodontitis was 1.13 [95% confidence interval (CI): 1.03, 1.24] per standard deviation increase of BMI. Controlling for potential confounders attenuated this estimate (OR = 1.08; 95% CI: 1.03, 1.12). For clinically assessed periodontitis, corresponding ORs were 1.25 (95% CI: 1.10, 1.42) and 1.13 (95% CI: 1.10, 1.17), respectively. In the genetic association meta-analysis, the OR for periodontitis was 1.01 (95% CI: 0.99, 1.03) per GRS unit (per one effect allele) in all participants and 1.00 (95% CI: 0.97, 1.03) in participants with clinically assessed periodontitis. The instrumental variable meta-analysis of all participants yielded an OR of 1.05 (95% CI: 0.80, 1.38) per BMI standard deviation, and 0.90 (95% CI: 0.56, 1.46) in participants with clinical data. Conclusions: Our study does not support total adiposity as a causal risk factor for periodontitis, as the point estimate is very close to the null in the causal inference analysis, with wide confidence intervals.
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| 6. |
- Stoeber, Gerald, et al.
(författare)
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Schizophrenia: From the brain to peripheral markers. A consensus paper of the WFSBP task force on biological markers
- 2009
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Ingår i: World Journal of Biological Psychiatry. - : Informa UK Limited. - 1562-2975 .- 1814-1412. ; 10:2, s. 127-155
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Forskningsöversikt (refereegranskat)abstract
- Objective. The phenotypic complexity, together with the multifarious nature of the so-called schizophrenic psychoses, limits our ability to form a simple and logical biologically based hypothesis for the disease group. Biological markers are defined as biochemical, physiological or anatomical traits that are specific to particular conditions. An important aim of biomarker discovery is the detection of disease correlates that can be used as diagnostic tools. Method. A selective review of the WFSBP Task Force on Biological Markers in schizophrenia is provided from the central nervous system to phenotypes, functional brain systems, chromosomal loci with potential genetic markers to the peripheral systems. Results. A number of biological measures have been proposed to be correlated with schizophrenia. At present, not a single biological trait in schizophrenia is available which achieves sufficient specificity, selectivity and is based on causal pathology and predictive validity to be recommended as diagnostic marker. Conclusions. With the emergence of new technologies and rigorous phenotypic subclassification the identification of genetic bases and assessment of dynamic disease related alterations will hopefully come to a new stage in the complex field of psychiatric research.
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| 7. |
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| 8. |
- Borkopp-Restle, Birgitt, et al.
(författare)
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Museums and the Making of Textile Histories : Past, Present, and Future
- 2016
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Ingår i: Perspective. - : OpenEdition. - 1777-7852 .- 2269-7721. ; :1, s. 43-60
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Nombre de musées différents collectionnent et préservent les textiles, et collectent les données les concernant. Ils les interprètent également par le biais d’expositions temporaires ou semi permanentes, de publications et d’interventions sur des sites web. Ces interprétations se présentent isolément, ou sont parfois inscrites dans un cadre plus large qui englobe l’histoire de l’art et du design, la science et la technologie, ou encore l’histoire sociale et l’anthropologie, l’histoire locale et les cultures du monde (types de textiles et approches utilisées dans les grandes capitales de la mode – Londres, Paris, Milan, New York – possédant une longue tradition de production et de consommation textile, ou dans des villes manufacturières telles que Krefeld, Lyon ou Manchester, par exemple). Malgré tout, les événements organisés autour des textiles attirent rarement l’attention du grand public ou les éloges de la critique – hormis peut-être certaines expositions novatrices telles que celles organisées par Jean-Paul Leclercq (« Jouer la lumière », Paris, Les Arts décoratifs, Musée de la Mode et du textile, 2001), Thomas P. Campbell, (« Tapestry in the Renaissance: Art and Magnificence, New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2002), Amelia Peck et al. (« Interwoven Globe : The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800 », New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2013-2014), ou John Styles (« Threads of Feeling », Londres, The Foundling Hospital, 2010-2011/Colonial Williamsburg, 2014). Cette discussion vise à tirer parti des différentes expériences culturelles des participants et des diverses formations disciplinaires qu’ils incarnent :- Encourager le débat sur le rôle joué par les musées en matière de fabrication et de représentation de l’histoire des textiles. Les musées ne sont pas simplement dépositaires d’objets textiles : ils écrivent aussi leur histoire, qu’elle soit universitaire ou grand public, par le biais d’expositions et de publications. Comment ce travail s’articule-t-il avec la recherche universitaire et le partage des connaissances ? Tient-il compte des nouveaux apports de la recherche et alimente-t-il celle-ci ? Comment faire évoluer à l’avenir les échanges entre musées et universités dans différentes régions et cultures du monde ? - Déterminer quels musées font preuve d’innovation (à l’échelle locale, régionale, nationale et internationale). En quoi consistent ces innovations, et peuvent-elle contribuer à déterminer de futures orientations, notamment en matière de collection et d’interprétation ? Par interprétation, il faut entendre ici tout type d’explication sous forme numérique ou analogique fournie pour contextualiser les œuvres exposées. - Il est difficile, désormais, d’affirmer que seuls les historiens de l’art sont à même de proposer une étude dynamique des objets datant de la période post 1500, et l’intérêt quasi exclusif porté jusqu’ici aux textiles attachés à la tradition bien établie de la collection d’amateur d’art (essentiellement les tentures et tapisseries répondant à des commandes de prestige) est aujourd’hui remis en question par l’adoption d’approches plus globales par les historiens et les spécialistes de l’histoire du design et de la culture matérielle.
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| 9. |
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| 10. |
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Fashion and Print Culture: Translation and transformation : Special Issue of Konsthistorisk tidskrift/Journal of Art History
- 2013
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Proceedings (redaktörskap) (refereegranskat)abstract
- Fashion is both a material product and a feature of the imagination. The way in which it is visualized, disseminated and distributed through representations is central to its social impact and influence across time and place. A study of print culture as it relates to fashion also requires the type of detailed understandings of the producers and reading publics for eighteenth-century periodicals and earlier forms of print. Yet the study of the construction and dissemination of the first fashion magazines is still little understood. Much has to be learned regarding the consumption of print culture generally as it pertains to fashion. What was the relationship between publishers, writers and illustrators of the fashion design press in France, England and Sweden? Who provided the narrative structure and imaginary settings of these magazines that continue to animate contemporary advertising today? How did the transmission of ideas in print work in practice?The dominance of an English-French dialogue about fashion is not just a product of the dominance of contemporary Western European foci in cultural history, in part a product of the languages that were taught in schools and colleges until recently. Even in the 18th century, fashion was often discussed as a type of dialogue between France and England. The eighteenth-century periodical Cabinet des Modes was itself positioned as a type of dialogue between England and France, suggesting that fashion derived from these two principal fashion capitals. Indeed, it changed its name at one stage to Magasin des Modes Nouvelles Françaises et Anglaises, allowing both a pictorial and a rhetorical dialogue to take place on the page, and inserting both countries into a cosmopolitan circuit ideas and of exchange. How then can we narrate the story of fashionability in countries other than France and England, what can be learned from national collections and foreign language texts than remain poorly accessed outside those countries?This special issue of the KT publishes findings related to the HERA funded project ‘Fashioning the Early Modern 1500-1800’ and the portfolio to be managed by McNeil and Dr Patrik Steorn, its post-doctoral researcher, ‘Print Culture and Fashion Products’. Editors' Introduction plus 9 articles; 8 in English and 1 in French.
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| 11. |
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| 12. |
- Haukvik, Unn Kristin, et al.
(författare)
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An exploratory model for G x E interaction on hippocampal volume in schizophrenia; obstetric complications and hypoxia-related genes
- 2010
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Ingår i: Progress in Neuro-Psychopharmacology and Biological Psychiatry. - : Elsevier BV. - 0278-5846 .- 1878-4216. ; 34:7, s. 1259-1265
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Forskningsöversikt (refereegranskat)abstract
- Background Smaller hippocampal volume has repeatedly been reported in schizophrenia patients Obstetric complications (OCs) and single nucleotide polymorphism (SNP) variation in schizophrenia susceptibility genes have independently been related to hippocampal volume We investigated putative independent and interaction effects of severe hypoxia-related OCs and variation in four hypoxia-regulated schizophrenia susceptibility genes (BDNF, DTNBP1, GRM3 and NRG1) on hippocampal volume in schizophrenia patients and healthy controls. Methods Clinical assessment, structural MRI scans, and blood samples for genotyping of 32 SNPs were obtained from 54 schizophrenia patients and 53 control subjects Information on obstetric complications was collected from original birth records Results Severe OCs were related to hippocampal volume in both patients with schizophrenia and healthy control subjects Of the 32 SNPs studied, effects of severe OCs on hippocampal volume were associated with allele variation in GRM3 rs13242038, but the interaction effect was not specific for schizophrenia. SNP variation in any of the four investigated genes alone did not significantly affect hippocampal volume. Conclusions. The findings suggest a gene-environment (G x E) interaction between GRM3 gene variants and severe obstetric complications on hippocampus volume, independent of a diagnosis of schizophrenia Due to the modest sample size, the results must be considered preliminary and require replication in independent samples. (C) 2010 Elsevier Inc All rights reserved
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| 13. |
- Hiruy, Hiwot, et al.
(författare)
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FDA, CDC, and NIH Co-sponsored Public Workshop Summary-Development Considerations of Antimicrobial Drugs for the Treatment of Gonorrhea
- 2024
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Ingår i: Clinical Infectious Diseases. - : University of Chicago Press. - 1058-4838 .- 1537-6591.
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- There is an unmet need for developing drugs for the treatment of gonorrhea, due to rapidly evolving resistance of Neisseria gonorrhoeae against antimicrobial drugs used for empiric therapy, an increase in globally reported multidrug resistant cases, and the limited available therapeutic options. Furthermore, few drugs are under development. Development of antimicrobials is hampered by challenges in clinical trial design, limitations of available diagnostics, changes in and varying standards of care, lack of robust animal models, and clinically relevant pharmacodynamic targets. On April 23, 2021, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration; Centers for Disease Control and Prevention; and National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases, National Institutes of Health co-sponsored a workshop with stakeholders from academia, industry, and regulatory agencies to discuss the challenges and strategies, including potential collaborations and incentives, to facilitate the development of drugs for the treatment of gonorrhea. This article provides a summary of the workshop.
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| 14. |
- Lomas, Clare, et al.
(författare)
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Beyond the Rainbow : Queer Shoes
- 2011. - 1:2
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Ingår i: Shoes. - London : Berg Publishers. - 9780857850386 ; , s. 290-305
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Bokkapitel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)
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| 15. |
- López-Fauqued, M., et al.
(författare)
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Safety profile of the adjuvanted recombinant zoster vaccine : Pooled analysis of two large randomised phase 3 trials
- 2019
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Ingår i: Vaccine. - : Elsevier Ltd. - 0264-410X .- 1873-2518. ; 37:18, s. 2482-2493
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Background: The ZOE-50 (NCT01165177) and ZOE-70 (NCT01165229) phase 3 clinical trials showed that the adjuvanted recombinant zoster vaccine (RZV) was ≥90% efficacious in preventing herpes zoster in adults. Here we present a comprehensive overview of the safety data from these studies. Methods: Adults aged ≥50 (ZOE-50) and ≥70 (ZOE-70) years were randomly vaccinated with RZV or placebo. Safety analyses were performed on the pooled total vaccinated cohort, consisting of participants receiving at least one dose of RZV or placebo. Solicited and unsolicited adverse events (AEs) were collected for 7 and 30 days after each vaccination, respectively. Serious AEs (SAEs) were collected from the first vaccination until 12 months post-last dose. Fatal AEs, vaccination-related SAEs, and potential immune-mediated diseases (pIMDs) were collected during the entire study period. Results: Safety was evaluated in 14,645 RZV and 14,660 placebo recipients. More RZV than placebo recipients reported unsolicited AEs (50.5% versus 32.0%); the difference was driven by transient injection site and solicited systemic reactions that were generally seen in the first week post-vaccination. The occurrence of overall SAEs (RZV: 10.1%; Placebo: 10.4%), fatal AEs (RZV: 4.3%; Placebo: 4.6%), and pIMDs (RZV: 1.2%; Placebo: 1.4%) was balanced between groups. The occurrence of possible exacerbations of pIMDs was rare and similar between groups. Overall, except for the expected local and systemic symptoms, the safety results were comparable between the RZV and Placebo groups irrespective of participant age, gender, or race. Conclusions: No safety concerns arose, supporting the favorable benefit-risk profile of RZV. © 2019 GlaxoSmithKline Biologicals SA
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| 16. |
- Mak, Alan, et al.
(författare)
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Attosecond single-cycle undulator light : a review
- 2019
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Ingår i: Reports on progress in physics (Print). - : IOP Publishing. - 0034-4885 .- 1361-6633. ; 82:2
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Forskningsöversikt (refereegranskat)abstract
- Research at modern light sources continues to improve our knowledge of the natural world, from the subtle workings of life to matter under extreme conditions. Free-electron lasers, for instance, have enabled the characterization of biomolecular structures with sub-angstrom spatial resolution, and paved the way to controlling the molecular functions. On the other hand, attosecond temporal resolution is necessary to broaden our scope of the ultrafast world. Here we discuss attosecond pulse generation beyond present capabilities. Furthermore, we review three recently proposed methods of generating attosecond x-ray pulses. These novel methods exploit the coherent radiation of microbunched electrons in undulators and the tailoring of the emitted wavefronts. The computed pulse energy outperforms pre-existing technologies by three orders of magnitude. Specifically, our simulations of the proposed Soft X-ray Laser at MAX IV (Lund, Sweden) show that a pulse duration of 50-100 as and a pulse energy up to 5 mu J is feasible with the novel methods. In addition, the methods feature pulse shape control, enable the incorporation of orbital angular momentum, and can be used in combination with modern compact free-electron laser setups.
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| 17. |
- Mak, Alan, et al.
(författare)
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Overview of Undulator Concepts for Attosecond Single-Cycle Light
- 2018
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Ingår i: Journal of Physics, Conference Series. - : IOP Publishing. - 1742-6588 .- 1742-6596. ; 1067
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Tidskriftsartikel (refereegranskat)abstract
- The production of intense attosecond light pulses is an active area in accelerator research, motivated by the stringent demands of attosecond science: (i) short pulse duration for resolving the fast dynamics of electrons in atoms and molecules; (ii) high photon flux for probing and controlling such dynamics with high precision. While the free-electron laser (FEL) can deliver the highest brilliance amongst laboratory x-ray sources today, the pulse duration is typically 10-100 femtoseconds. A major obstacle to attaining attosecond duration is that the number of optical cycles increases with every undulator period. Hence, an FEL pulse typically contains tens or hundreds of cycles. In recent years, several novel concepts have been proposed to shift this paradigm, providing the basis for single-cycle pulses and paving the way towards high-brilliance attosecond light sources. This article gives an overview of these concepts.
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| 18. |
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| 19. |
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| 20. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Alchemical Power. On the Duchess and the Ladies who Lunched
- 2013
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Ingår i: Vestoj: The Journal of Sartorial Matters. ; :4, s. 17-26
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Tidskriftsartikel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- The power of fashion clothing to attract attention has never been so pervasive, but its meaning has changed. What once seemed unobtainable and was achieved via years of aesthetic and personal ‘training’ sits on a stage quite different from that of the inter-war years. This world disappeared with the Second World War, despite various attempts to revive it in the fashions and entertainments of the 1950s and its mythological reflection in Hollywood films of that era. The essay reconsiders the infamous essay by Truman Capote; a part of his unfinished novel Answered Prayers, published as La Côte Basque 1965 in Esquire in 1975.
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| 21. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-, et al.
(författare)
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An Incredible Fan!
- 2012
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Annan publikation (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)
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| 22. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Art and Dress
- 2010
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Ingår i: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Volume 8: West Europe. - Oxford and New York : Berg Publishers. - 9781847883971 ; , s. 522-527
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Bokkapitel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)
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| 23. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Australian and New Zealand Art History Historiographical Bibliography Incorporating the Australian Art and Design History bibliography Including texts relating to interiors, architecture, furniture, decorative arts and crafts; texts published pre-1995, including certain primary sources prepared by Professor Peter McNeil, pp 24-34 : With Benjamin Thomas (ed)
- 2011
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Ingår i: Journal of Art Historiography. - Journal of Art Historiography : Barber/Art History/Uni Birmingham. ; 1:4/June, s. 1-36
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Tidskriftsartikel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- First published bilbiography of works relating to crafts, design and decorative arts in Australia, mainly items pre 1994, based on McNeil's MA Thesis Australian National University 1994
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| 24. |
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| 25. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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"Beyond the horizon of hair" : masculinity, nationhood and fashion in the Anglo-French Eighteenth century
- 2013. - 1
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Ingår i: Hinter dem Horizont, Band 2: Projektion und Distinktion landlicher Oberschichten im europaischen Vergleich, 17-19. Jahrhundert. - : Aschendorff Verlag. - 9783402130346 ; , s. 79-90
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Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)abstract
- Fashion is a distinctive format as it is both an economic product and a part of the imaginative horizon. It exists in a double register of material actions and also in its representations. The wearing of false hair in replacement of one’s own is a cultural act that was transformed from the social requisite of an élite to a more individualised consumer choice over the course of the long-eighteenth century. Worn almost universally by men in England and very widely in France by the early-eighteenth century, the wig was offered in a variety of formats and qualities, and was constantly subject to fashion change and also innovation in design. Over the course of the century changing priorities about health, science and also aesthetics became allied with notions of comfort and convenience, meaning that the wig did not become ‘old fashioned’ but rather was ‘re- fashioned’ in new ways. Even at the time when the wearing of one’s own hair was gaining currency in the 1760-1770s, ‘fashion’ created new tastes for very high toupées, long tails and particularly mannered appearances for male wigs. Although wigs represented a cost, the hair of young men could likely be modified or amplified with false hair in order to appear fashionable. This paper will present aspects of the evidence that survives for this practice, as well as speculating at length on what the hairstyles might have meant or inferred. In this way, the chapter will consider both a social, bodily and material culture practice – hairstyling and hair-pieces – with broader social, psychological and cultural meanings.
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| 26. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Caricatura e moda: storia di una presa in giro
- 2010
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Ingår i: Moda. Storia e Storie. - Milan : 9788861594906. ; , s. 156-167
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Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)abstract
- From the Italian for ‘charge’ or ‘loaded’, the caricature print emerged in large numbers in the eighteenth century in industrialising western Europe. It was in the second half of this century that the caricature which concerned itself primarily with the subject of fashion and manners rather than political or portrait themes developed. The origins and conventions of the fashion caricature include overlapping literary, theatrical, popular-religious and artistic traditions. Greco-Roman theorisations, performances and artistic depictions of the comic world turned upside down, and late medieval woodcuts, in which memento mori themes of the dance of death and the bonfire of the vanities established the tropes of the veneer of civilisation and the futility of dress and cosmetics in arresting earthly time. The European carnival tradition, commedia dell’arte and puppetry which highlight human foibles, and the figure of the hag who deploys fashion and make-up in an act of sartorial and spiritual delusion, provided subjects for major Romantic artists working in the etching media such as Giambattista Tiepolo (1696-1770), Domenico Tiepolo (1727-1804) and Francisco Goya (1746-1828). Not fashion caricatures as such, nor were these images widely available, but their themes recur in the eighteenth-century caricature print. Caricature fashion prints also exist in a relationship to respectful engravings of the cries or occupations of the town, plates depicting national dress, and ‘costume plates’ depicting courtier men and ‘women of quality’ by 17th century artists including Abraham Bosse and J. D. de Saint-Jean in France and the Bohemian Wenceslaus Hollar (1607-1677) working in England. The work of Jacques Callot (1592-1635) in France crosses the boundary between observation and satire. Etched images take on new meanings when pointed titles or moralising verse are appended; the caricature generally makes use of a combination of word and image.This essay examines the semantic and visual play of the caricature print and comments on contemporary applications.
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| 27. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Caricature and Fashion- History of Mockery
- 2013
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Ingår i: Reproduction, Representation, and Communication. - Taipei, Taiwan : National Yang-Ming University. ; , s. 35-56
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Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)abstract
- English Version of Italian Article: McNeil, P.K. 2010, 'Caricatura e moda: storia di una presa in giro' in Muzzarelli, M.G., Riello, G. & Tosi Brandi, E. (eds), Moda. Storia e Storie, Bruno Mondadori, Milan, pp. 156-167
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| 28. |
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| 29. |
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| 30. |
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| 31. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Conspicuous Waist: Queer Dress in the "Long Eighteenth Century"
- 2013
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Ingår i: A Queer History of Fashion. - New Haven : Yale University Press. - 9780300196702 ; , s. 71-107
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Bokkapitel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- Why do many young gay men wish to appear thin, rich and pretty? What are the precursors for this way of being in the world? Why does society blame gay male designers for extreme female fashion trends? How do persecuted minorities manage their identity via clothing and fashionable looks? These are big questions indeed. They can be tested in part through an historical overview and a series of case studies.This chapter will examine the tantalising but difficult hypothesis that ‘gay style actually sets trends. It’s what straight people take fashion from’. Richard Martin proposed this in his short article ‘The Gay Factor in Fashion’ in Esquire Gentlemen, 1993, when he argued that gay male influence in the refining and defining of masculine style ‘by dint of their attraction to their own gender’ had never been more pronounced than in the street style of that period: ‘Straight suburban males in recent years have absorbed gay style signatures, including earrings and bandannas, and are now often indistinguishable from the gay clones of the 1970s... Christopher Street is our sartorial Ellis Island’.But ‘gay fashion’ before that point was often far from butch. This overview begins with the development of sodomitical subcultures in early-eighteenth century western Europe. Much is known of their fashionable taste including extreme colours, clashing colours and patterns, and sometimes cross-dressing. The chapter goes on to examine the function and tenacity of the aristocratic dress codes of the fin-de-siècle dandy which were adopted by numerous queer men until the 1960s.We still see this being played out in the generational conflict in the film The Boys in the Band (1970). These Wildean strategies survive, what Alan Sinfield in his The Wilde century : effeminacy, Oscar Wilde, and the queer moment (1994) called the constellation of ‘effeminacy, leisure, idleness, immorality, luxury, insouciance, decadence and aestheticism’. As well as suggesting difference and excess, aristocratic dress codes might also have been adopted as the suggestion of wealthy assurance could excuse eccentric behaviour considered ‘other’. The corollary is the inter-war mannish lesbian such as the artist Gluck, whose eccentric but purposeful adoption of male dress in public was a privilege of her great wealth.
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| 32. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Crafting Queer Spaces: privacy and posturing
- 2010. - 1
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Ingår i: Fashion, Interior Design and the Contours of Modern Identity. - : Ashgate. - 9780754669159 ; , s. 19-41
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Bokkapitel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- This paper examines several extraordinary spaces crafted by eccentric and famous men. It will be argued that they created novel and innovative 'queer space' for the projection of fluid male identities and fantasies employing intimate private spaces, furnishings, dress and diversions. In most cases the spaces developed in an organic way over time; even the planning process was odd. The cases will be the English patron-designers Horace Walpole (Strawberry Hill), William Beckford (Fonthill), the Swedish King Gustav III (Haga), and the 20th-century collector and connoisseur Henry Francis du Pont (Winterthur, Delaware). The notion of 'queer' that will be deployed is derived from David Halperin’s Foucauldian reading of sexuality: where queer ‘describes a horizon of possibility whose precise extent and heterogeneous scope cannot in principle be limited in advance’. In reading the meanings of the neo-gothic, neo-classical and historicising spaces created by these men, aspects of the relationships between the crafting of interior decoration, sensibility and sociability will be foregrounded.
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| 33. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Critical and Primary Sources in Fashion, the 20th Century to Today
- 2009
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Bok (populärvet., debatt m.m.)abstract
- Winner, Best anthology or edited book, AAANZ, Art History Association of Australia and NZ Citation: Best Edited Book Peter McNeil, Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources. Late Medieval to Renaissance (4 volumes, 1600 pp.), Berg, Oxford and New York, 2009 Judges Report AAANZ 2010 As with the Best Large Catalogue this year, the judges were encouraged by the extraordinary quality of entries in this category. Several major volumes were put forward which represent diverse fields of international scholarship notable for their interdisciplinary approaches. This year the sheer wealth and breadth of scholarship of the anthologies has made the task of judging particularly challenging complicated by entries that encompass such diverse fields. For that reason we have chosen to highly commend two edited books, both of which bring new and original scholarship to focus on major fields of enquiry, along with high production values, useful indexes and wonderful covers: ‘Photography Degree Zero: Reflections on Roland Barthes’s Camera Lucida’, edited by Geoffrey Batchen and published by MIT Press can rightfully claim to reopen the conversation on Barthes’ most influential 1980 text, by introducing a new generation of scholars to interpret and interrogate such intellectual heavyweights as Michael Fried, Victor Burgin and Rosalind Krauss; and ‘Reframing Darwin: Evolution and Art in Australia’ edited by Jeanette Hoorn, is a beautifully produced set of essays of original research by key experts in the field published by the wonderful Miegunyah Press at the University of Melbourne that makes a book into a beautiful object. The judges noted two significant themes in the submissions this year: the art history of Charles Darwin’s anniversary and the relatively new field of fashion histories. ‘Reframing Darwin’ is just one of the excellent submissions in the former category. In the latter category the judges noted the high quality of new work in the field and would like to present the award of Best Edited book to Peter McNeil’s 4-volume Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources. This monumental contribution to fashion history spans the late medieval to modern period. It is the result of a Herculean effort of scholarship, which will undoubted change the way that the field is understood by specialists and taught to future generations of scholars. Ann Stephen and Jennifer Milam
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| 34. |
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| 35. |
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| 36. |
- McNeil, Peter, et al.
(författare)
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Editorial
- 2013
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Ingår i: Konsthistorisk Tidskrift. - : Informa UK Limited. - 0023-3609 .- 1651-2294. ; 82:3, s. 129-134
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Tidskriftsartikel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)
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| 37. |
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| 38. |
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| 39. |
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| 40. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Fashion Designers
- 2010
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Ingår i: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. - : Berg Publishers. - 9781847881045 ; , s. 129-136
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Bokkapitel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)
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| 41. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Fashion, Dress and Interior Spaces
- 2010
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Ingår i: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. - : Berg Publishers. - 9781847881045 ; , s. 218-225
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Bokkapitel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)
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| 42. |
- McNeil, Peter
(författare)
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Fashion, form, identity : Swedish Fashion: Exploring a New Identity
- 2008
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Ingår i: Swedish Fashion: Exploring a New Identity. - : Swedish Institute Stockholm. - 9789152009680 ; , s. 42-45
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Bokkapitel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- This is a catalogue for the exhibition Swedish Fashion - Exploring a New Identity, produced by the Swedish Institute. The exhibition is scheduled to tour the world during two years, starting in 2009. McNeil's essay argues why fashion is a type of abstraction that permits social understandings.
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| 43. |
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| 44. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Fashion Houses
- 2012
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Ingår i: Nordic Fashion Studies. - Stockholm : Axl Books. - 9789197859899 ; , s. 245-270
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Bokkapitel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)
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| 45. |
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| 46. |
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| 47. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-, et al.
(författare)
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Fashion Writing and Criticism : History, Theory, Practice
- 2014
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Bok (refereegranskat)abstract
- "Fashion Writing and Criticism" provides students with the tools to critique fashion with skill and style. Explaining the history and theory of criticism, this innovative text demonstrates how the tradition of criticism has developed and how this knowledge can be applied to fashion, enabling students to acquire the methods and proper vocabulary to be active critics themselves. Integrating history and theory, this innovative book explains the development of fashion writing, the theoretical basis on which it sits, and how it might be improved and applied. Through concise snapshot case studies, top international scholars McNeil and Miller analyse fashion excerpts in relation to philosophical ideas and situate them within historical contexts. Case studies include contemporary examples of fashion writing, as well as Diana Vreeland at Harper's Bazaar and Richard Martin on Karl Lagerfeld. Accessibly written, "Fashion Writing and Criticism" enables readers to understand, assess and make value judgments about the fascinating and changeable field of fashion [publisher's abstract]
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| 48. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Flowers in the Art of Dress across the World
- 2010
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Ingår i: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Volume 10: Global Perspectives. - : Berg Publishers. - 9781847881045 ; , s. 146-155
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Bokkapitel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)
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| 49. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Georg Simmel : the ‘philosophical Monet’
- 2015
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Ingår i: Thinking through fashion. - : I.B. Tauris. - 9780755694785 - 9781780767338 ; , s. 63-80
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Bokkapitel (refereegranskat)
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| 50. |
- McNeil, Peter, 1966-
(författare)
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Haute Couture within a fashion studies perspective
- 2011
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Ingår i: Kunglig vintage / Royal Vintage (exhibition catalogue). - Stockholm : The Royal Armoury/Livrustkammaren. - 9789187594373 ; , s. 175-183
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Bokkapitel (övrigt vetenskapligt/konstnärligt)abstract
- The history of haute couture is well researched from perspectives that range from mythologising studies of particular designers to market-field research. Haute couture occupies a rather ambivalent place within the contemporary field of fashion studies, a field that concerns itself as much with everyday dress or sub-cultural style as with rare pieces of luxury. The values that couture was meant to uphold were themselves the subject of dispute and debate in the years after the second world war, when changing notions of the role and social place of the fashion designer also transformed the ‘brief’ of fashion design. A focus on individuality within set parameters has led today to the idea of customisation, which we associate with youth culture, Nike, Iphones and ‘apps’ – but the couture was always a process of customization, more regarding suitability than extremism, perhaps, for a member of the Swedish royal family. Haute couture is also important from the perspective of the status of the designer in twentieth-century culture. The production of clothing generated from a designer’s ‘vision’ or intention marks something distinctive that raises issues of the quest for artistic rights and copyright within the appearance industries. The couture inverts an older more obsequious idea concerning service – the couturier creates the vision for the client, although the customer was also involved in the negotiations when the garment was made up. It was never a one-way fashion street.
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