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- Abbafati, Cristiana, et al.
(author)
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- 2020
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Journal article (peer-reviewed)
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| 2. |
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| 3. |
- Devendorf, Laura, et al.
(author)
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AdaCAD: Parametric Design as a New Form of Notation for Complex Weaving
- 2023
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In: Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems - Proceedings. - : ACM Digital Library.
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Conference paper (peer-reviewed)abstract
- Woven textiles are increasingly a medium through which HCI is inventing new technologies. Key challenges in integrating woven textiles in HCI include the high level of textile knowledge required to make effective use of the new possibilities they afford and the need for tools that bridge the concerns of textile designers and concerns of HCI researchers. This paper presents AdaCAD, a parametric design tool for designing woven textile structures. Through our design and evaluation of AdaCAD we found that parametric design helps weavers notate and explain the logics behind the complex structures they generate. We discuss these finding in relation to prior work in integrating craft and/or weaving in HCI, histories of woven notation, and boundary object theory to illuminate further possibilities for collaboration between craftspeople and HCI practitioners.
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| 4. |
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DRAFTS: Design Research Artifacts as an Intermediary Knowledge : Research Exhibition at Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design (PIFD), Lahore, Pakistan
- 2021
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Artistic work (exhibition/event) (peer-reviewed)abstract
- Line, 2018Cotton, polyamide monofilament, wool, elastic.In Line, contrasting materials are woven together --stiff monofilament, soft wool, and shrinking elastic. The design is defined by small hexagonal pockets of double-weave, punctuated by a span of stiff single-weave. This loom-woven textile has been aggressively finished in a hot machine wash, felting the wool, and forcing the monofilament out from the textile surface in loops. This artifact arose from a series of experiments exploring form morphologies and material behaviour when combining two yarns with shrinking potential with a stiff yarn, and how different finishing techniques could alter the form-making relationship between the materials within the textile.(Selections from) Rectangle, 2018Cotton, linen, polyamide monofilament, paper tape yarn, elasticThe nine textile artifacts that make up Rectangle explore how structure and material combine with finishing processes (steaming, washing, tumble drying) to produce different morphologies of form. They are transformative textiles woven flat on the loom, with the potential for three-dimensional form embedded in the interaction between structure and material. The paper yarn’s behaviour is fundamentally altered through finishing --from stiff, to soft when tumbled dried, or felting when washed at high temperatures. Meanwhile the stiff monofilament resists the shrinkage of the elastic yarn, deforming the rectangular plane of the textile.
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| 5. |
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DRAFTS: Design Research Artifacts in the Context of Exhibition; 1st International Art Triennial Unpredictable Futures: Nenuspejamos Ateitys (UFNA) at Lithuanian Museum of Ethnocosmology and Moletai Region Museum, Lithuania
- 2021
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Artistic work (exhibition/event) (peer-reviewed)abstract
- Transforming patterns, 2017Polyamide monofilament, elastic, cotton, polyamide.This experimental textile was designed to explore the effects of different ratios of warp and weft, scale, and layer transposition on the surface patterning and three-dimensional form of a single textile. Textural variations affecting the appearance of the patterning and the three-dimensional form were created by varying the proportions of warp and weft between the front and back layers in certain areas.The result is a textile with surfaces which both undulate smoothly, and buckle. In some areas, the weft strains to cover the warp, while in others it escapes completely, turning in loops and spirals before re-entering the woven structure. This is an expression due entirely to the behaviour of the textile as a complex system: the textile making itself.
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| 6. |
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Experiment 0 - tunic and trousers : Väv – hantverk för alla / Weaving - crafts for everyone
- 2021
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Artistic work (exhibition/event)abstract
- Experiment 0 tunic and trousers: cut but unshrunk, shrunk on mould, uniformly shrunk [6 pieces]Cotton and polyesterThese textile-forms do not require new technology, only rethinking how existing technology is currently used and understood. Using an innovative design process that enables the production of 2D woven textiles with the form embedded into the weave structure, these structures and heat-reactive fibres produce zero waste garments (or other textile-forms) through cutting and heat-forming over a 3D mould, with minimal or no assembly required. The textile-form can also be uniformly shrunk or altered with heat over many alternative forms to manipulate its form further at any stage of this lifetime. The overall aesthetic expression of the garment – its texture and form – emerges from the making process, and is therefore unique to each textile-form.This process transforms garment construction from what is usually a labour-intensive hand process to an almost fully automated one – and front loading or reversing the 'craft' of making to the design stage, while leaving the design perpetually ‘unfinished’. Each different decision and the sequence of alteration becomes an extension of the design and prototyping process, unveiling connections and unintended consequences of earlier decisions and material choices.
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| 7. |
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Flex
- 2023
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Artistic work (exhibition/event)abstract
- Flex is a hygromorphic textile, actuated with hard-twisted linen yarn, which flexes when wet and relaxes as it dries.
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| 8. |
- Lee, James J, et al.
(author)
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Gene discovery and polygenic prediction from a genome-wide association study of educational attainment in 1.1 million individuals.
- 2018
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In: Nature genetics. - : Springer Science and Business Media LLC. - 1546-1718 .- 1061-4036. ; 50:8, s. 1112-1121
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Journal article (peer-reviewed)abstract
- Here we conducted a large-scale genetic association analysis of educational attainment in a sample of approximately 1.1million individuals and identify 1,271independent genome-wide-significant SNPs. For the SNPs taken together, we found evidence of heterogeneous effects across environments. The SNPs implicate genes involved in brain-development processes and neuron-to-neuron communication. In a separate analysis of the X chromosome, we identify 10independent genome-wide-significant SNPs and estimate a SNP heritability of around 0.3% in both men and women, consistent with partial dosage compensation. A joint (multi-phenotype) analysis of educational attainment and three related cognitive phenotypes generates polygenic scores that explain 11-13% of the variance in educational attainment and 7-10% of the variance in cognitive performance. This prediction accuracy substantially increases the utility of polygenic scores as tools in research.
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| 9. |
- Lewis, Erin, 1980-, et al.
(author)
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Colour, texture, and luminance : Textile design methods for printing with electroluminescent inks
- 2023
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In: Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science Journal. - Milan. - 2384-9568. ; 15:1, s. 27-34
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Journal article (peer-reviewed)abstract
- Printable smart materials offer textile designers a range of changeable colours, with the potential to redefine the expressive properties of static textiles. However, this comes with the challenge of understanding how the printing process may need to be adapted for these novel materials. This research explores and exemplifies the properties and potential of electroluminescent inks as printable smart colours for textiles, in order to facilitate an understanding of designing complex surface patterns with electroluminescent inks. Three conventional textile print methods – colour mixing, halftone rasterization, and overlapping – have been investigated through experimental design research to expand the design potential of electroluminescent inks. The result presents a set of methods to create various color mixtures and design complex patterns. It offers recipes for print formulation and documents the outcomes, offering a new design resource for textile surface pattern designers to promote creativity in design, and provides fundamental knowledge for the creation of patterns on textiles using electroluminescent inks.
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