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- Adman, Per, et al.
(author)
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171 forskare: ”Vi vuxna bör också klimatprotestera”
- 2019
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In: Dagens nyheter (DN debatt). - Stockholm. - 1101-2447.
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Journal article (pop. science, debate, etc.)abstract
- DN DEBATT 26/9. Vuxna bör följa uppmaningen från ungdomarna i Fridays for future-rörelsen och protestera eftersom det politiska ledarskapet är otillräckligt. Omfattande och långvariga påtryckningar från hela samhället behövs för att få de politiskt ansvariga att utöva det ledarskap som klimatkrisen kräver, skriver 171 forskare i samhällsvetenskap och humaniora.
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- Takedomi Karlsson, Mariko
(author)
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Fashioning the Ecological Crisis : Sustainability and Feminism in Fashion Advertising and Communication in Contemporary Sweden
- 2023
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Doctoral thesis (other academic/artistic)abstract
- The corporatisation of social justice (gender justice, LGBTQI+ rights, racial justice) and environmental justice ideals in the last decades has grown immensely in western countries, exemplified by rainbow-clad ATM’s during Pride month or Nike using images of NFL player Kaepernick’s anti-racism protest action of taking a knee during the USA national anthem in a marketing campaign. One of the industries that has been particularly inundated with symbols of social justice is the fashion industry. This dissertation focuses on articulations of the environment, gender, and race through a study of sustainability and feminist discourses in fashion advertising and communication in Sweden – a country that prides itself on being a leader in sustainability and gender equality. The global fashion industry is one of the most polluting and environmentally damaging, for example, its contribution to climate change is significant. At the same time, profits from garment production rely on the exploitation of cheap, often female labour, predominantly from the global South. There is an inherent contradiction in discourses in the light of the material impacts which marks the importance of investigating the gender/environment nexus in fashion. While public awareness of greenwashing and insufficient ethical standards in the fashion industry grows, mass-consumption of clothing is not slowing down as a consequence. This conundrum is a central question in the thesis. Through analyses of interviews, social media and visual advertising material, the dissertation seeks to understand how discourses of sustainability and feminism circulate amongst digital media and consumers. It argues that ideology and interpellation play an important role in maintaining the dream of sustainable and socially just imaginaries of fashion.
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- Takedomi Karlsson, Mariko
(author)
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Gendered Consumption and Production: Understanding the Gender/Sustainability Nexus in the Swedish Fashion Industry
- 2023
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Conference paper (peer-reviewed)abstract
- My research is concerned with the co-optation of sustainability, feminism, and social justice within and by the fast fashion industry in Sweden. This stems from a desire to understand the acceleration of sustainability discourse and narratives built by brands (through communication, advertisement, marketing, and sustainability reporting) and how this shapes consumption. I argue that the dominating narrative within fast fashion brands is a neoliberal one that is both techno optimistic as well as uncritical of consumerism. Through an analysis of the discourses of sustainability, feminism, and social justice in the fast fashion industry in Sweden, my PhD research aims to critically examine the current sustainability solutions offered by fashion companies and explain why they fail to address some of the core problems in fashion, such as over-production and over-consumption, as well as the unethical nature of garment factory work.In my dissertation I try to understand the connection between gender and sustainability in the realm of fashion and consumption as well as more broadly and conceptually. One of my main arguments is that fashion companies adhere to the gender binary by advertising sustainable or ethical products specifically to women consumers, as they are expected to act and consume more sustainably. This is a problematic phenomenon which mostly accelerates consumption rather than lower it. Gender is an essential lens to understand sustainable consumption and fashion, partly because fashion and clothes are so intimately tied to desire and performativity, and gender is the best toolbox to deal with those elements. I argue that the way women’s subjectivities are constructed in fashion discourse creates a dichotomy between empowered conscious consumers, and empowerment seeking workers, creating an assumption that through the act of consumption, informed and benevolent consumers in the global North can help create a sustainable and socially just global future. This intensifies the dichotomy between women of the global North and the global South in a way that is not reflective of reality, while also creating a harmful hierarchy. In my research argue that encouraging so-called sustainable consumption ultimately is an ineffective way of making the fashion industry socially or ecologically sustainable.I plan to present an empirical chapter where I analyse interview material as well as fashion advertisements and social media content pertaining to sustainable consumption and female empowerment. The different types of material help to paint a wider picture of the different ways in which discourses on gender and sustainability operate within the fast fashion industry.
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- Takedomi Karlsson, Mariko, et al.
(author)
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Selling women the green dream: the paradox of feminism and sustainability in fashion marketing
- 2020
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In: Journal of Political Ecology. - : University of Arizona. - 1073-0451. ; 27:1, s. 335-359
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Journal article (peer-reviewed)abstract
- This article explores the paradox of corporations using social and environmental justice concerns to market products that are themselves made in conditions of environmental and social injustice, most often in the Global South. The effects of the fashion industry on people is two-pronged: 1) the unsafe and exploitative conditions under which many garment workers operate, and 2) the severe and harmful water and air pollution caused by fashion industry factories. There are thus contradictions inherent in the manner in which corporations, through their marketing, seek to foster feminism and environmentalism, whilst sourcing their garments from factories that operate in problematic ways. Using case studies of advertising campaigns from three Swedish companies, H&M, Monki and Gina Tricot, we conducted a discourse analysis to understand the messages to consumers as well as the image of the company that is portrayed. Through our political ecology analysis, we suggest that the promotion of feminism and environmentalism is not consistently applied by companies in their own practices and could at worst be labeled green and 'fem washing.' These approaches can also be deeply problematic when they lead to the exotification of others, and cultural appropriation. We further find that the marketing strategies in fashion serve not only to promote the sale of products but also have the effect of placing environmental responsibility onto individual consumers. Ultimately, fashion marketing serves to obfuscate ecologically unequal exchange and the true costs of fashion.
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